Life Changing African Adventure: Judge at National Drama Festival in Zimbabwe

THIS IS A REPRINT OF A STORY FROM OCTOBER 2016. START OF A NEW SERIES CALLED AFRICAN ADVENTURES.

National Flag and Symbol of Zimbabwe

THE START

In 2012, I accepted an offer to take a temporary job in Africa. At the time I did not know that this opportunity would quite literally change the entire fabric of my life. This trip would be so much more than just an adventure but in fact would be an overwhelming experience that would lead me to change the entire direction and focus of my life.

In 2011, my life was kind of falling apart. A three-year relationship with a woman who I loved very much had ended. I was still reeling from the aftermath of the world-wide economic downtown that had closed my real estate investment business and was forcing my house toward foreclosure. To cover the expenses of running my suddenly upside-down house, I was renting out every extra bedroom that I had to college students who went to school at the close-by University of Southern California. My only other income at the time was running a small non-profit theatre where I served as Producing Artistic Director. Theatre is one of the great passions of my life, but after 25 years leading a small non-profit arts group, I was exhausted and burned out.

I desperately needed a break, or as one friend put it best – “I needed an escape from my own life”. Yet, there was no lifeline nor escape. As my house edged ever closer to foreclosure, my despair grew, and my options were shrinking fast. It was at that moment that one morning an email arrived in my inbox. It was an email that I had been expecting, but I was not really sure how I felt about it. I had been communicating about a possible gig job with an arts group in Zimbabwe. One of my former theatre students when I taught at Pepperdine University in Malibu, CA., was from Zimbabwe, and her mother was a volunteer administrator for this organization. My former student had put us together and on a lark, I had applied to work for them.

Harare, Zimbabwe – Capitol city of Zimbabwe

THE JOB

The job was to be the Judge or Adjudicator for a national drama festival that takes place in Zimbabwe every year. The drama festival was part of an even larger series of arts festivals run by a group known as the National Institute of Allied Arts. The National Institute of Allied Arts is a 100-year-old volunteer organization founded by the British colonials to instill public speaking, drama, music, literature and visual arts into the white children of Zimbabwe. But over time and with the change of governments and Zimbabwe getting its freedom in 1980, the organization become one of the first to open its doors to all the children of Zim. Every year about 30 thousand+ children take part in 4 festivals a year in music, visual arts, literature and drama.

If hired I would be the first American to adjudicate their national drama festival. The job would take about 2 to 3 weeks and the adjudicator would see about 15000 children perform in various theatre and public speaking categories. The job paid a small salary and promised all living expenses would be covered. The catch was the adjudicator had to figure out a way to get to Zimbabwe and pay for it themselves. But who ever came as a reward, they would be given a two-week tour around Zimbabwe. They would see places with names that I had never heard but would soon become very familiar with in the coming weeks and years. Places like Harare, the capital city, Kwekwe, Gweru, Great Zim, Matopos National Park, Vic Falls, Bulawayo, and so many more.

The email offered me the job and seeing this as the escape that I needed and desperately wanted, I quickly said yes. The Festival would be in June and so the plans began in earnest. Being broke and not having the money to pay for the trip, I lied and told them I did. I swiftly started a campaign to raise the money. I wrote a small grant through my theatre, held a garage sale, and ran a Kickstarter fundraising campaign. Plus I also got 500 dollars from the US Embassy in Zimbabwe, but more on that later. In a matter of 3 weeks, I raised the 1500 dollars needed for the flight.

Zimbabwe here I come!!!

With the help of another friend, I managed to get a small guest teaching job in Rome, Italy for a week on the way back from Zimbabwe. I would spend a week there and then have two weeks of traveling very cheaply in Europe. Upon my return to the US, I would still be broke but maybe not in despair anymore.

LAX in Los Angeles

Wednesday, June 13, 2012, Los Angeles
Still I leave in 4 days. The rush to get everything done. What to pack? How much is too much or too little? The excitement! The fear! Of flying and being away for over two months! The voice of my doctor in my head. Don’t eat that, don’t drink that, wash all your food yourself, sanitize everything, don’t touch anything – really? People live there, what do they do? I am sure that every person who goes out to dinner in a large city in Africa does not ask to wash the vegetables. Next he would have told me not to breathe the air just to be on the safe side.

There are certainly concerns about health issues, I get that. Drink bottled water, be careful what you eat, be observant of the things around you. But if we are all that cautious, we would never leave our home. As Ben Franklin said – “all things in moderation.” I find that to still be one of the best pieces of advice every given. Try everything, do everything – just be reasonable about it.

I rented my own personal room out at my house. So even if I want to come back – I have to sleep on the couch. So, I might as well just stay overseas, right.
I am packing for two different hemispheres, and it is crazy. Winter in one place – seems mild in Zimbabwe. Pleasant days, chilly nights. It will be blazing hot in Rome in mid-July. You need to bring enough, but you want to travel light. Ahh, adventures in packing. And of course, it never fails no matter how organized you are when you are somewhere over the Atlantic, you remember that “most important” item aside from your passport that you left behind.
I leave in 4 days. The adventure begins. Whether I am ready or not. The plane leaves in 4 days. I am on it!!

“A journey is like marriage. The certain way to be wrong is to think you control it.” – John Steinbeck

Delayed passengers inside Terminal 7 at Los Angeles International Airport line up to go through TSA security check following a false alarm event in Los Angeles, California U.S August 28, 2016. REUTERS/Bob Riha Jr

Monday, June 18, 2012, DAY 0. Los Angeles.

I take off in 3 hours. After 8 months of work and luck and reaching out, it is about to happen. I take a red eye to DC. to meet my plane to Addis Abeba, Ethiopia. Than on from there to Harare. There are no words to describe how I feel at the moment. Excitement, fear, apprehension, joy all mixed up together. Here is praying for a safe journey to Harare. If you have good thoughts, please send them along.

My way to Zimbabwe – Ethiopian Airlines

“The whole object of travel is not to set foot on foreign land; it is at last to set foot on one’s own country as a foreign land.” – G. K. Chesterton ]

Next update from DC on Day 1. Cheers –

In Praise of Francis Ford Coppola

For four days, I sat on the movie set of Megalopolis, an upcoming American science fiction epic by director/producer/screenwriter Francis Ford Coppola and watched as the master filmmaker slowly and meticulously made his movie.

My Four Days on the Set of Megalopolis

By Jane Doe, Guest Author

(Ms. Jane Doe is an actress who worked on the movie Megalopolis as a background artist. She is using a fake name because she’s legally obligated not to speak about the film. She had signed an NDA to that effect, but her article was so compelling that we decided to publish it. We have signed an NDA with her not to reveal her name and claim our First Amendment rights of free speech to publish this article.)

For four days, I sat on the movie set of Megalopolis, an upcoming American science fiction epic by director/producer/screenwriter Francis Ford Coppola and watched as the master filmmaker slowly and meticulously made his movie. Coppola is the director of such amazing award-winning movies as the Godfather trilogy, Apocalypse Now, The Conversation and other movies like Bram Stoker’s Dracula, The Outsiders and The Rainmaker. He has also served as the producer of over 50+ movies through his American Zoetrope production company. The simple premise of Megalopolis is that in a New York City set sometime in the future and with a culture very much based on early Rome, a young woman is divided between loyalties to her father, who has a classical view of society, and her lover, who is more progressive and ready for the new future. Of course, the film has many much deeper plot points like an autocratic society, democracy versus a dictatorship much like early Rome itself, and morality and what is moral in a strict futuristic society.

Rumors and speculation about Megalopolis which is being shot in Atlanta and based at Trilith Studios have been swirling since the film began its five-month shoot in November of 2022. Stories of budget overruns, mass staff and actor defections, and just general disfunction as theories began to spread that Francis maybe was too old (84) to make another movie or that he just did not understand how to make a film with all the modern technology available now. 

Francis Ford Coppola started writing Megalopolis in the 1980s and has been trying to get the movie made since that time. He came close to production in early 2001 when he recorded roughly 30 hours of second-unit footage of New York City, but when the tragedy of 9/11 happened the film was placed on indefinite hold. By 2007 Coppola publicly announced that the film would never be made. Yet in 2019 just before the pandemic it was announced that Coppola was going to try and make the movie. However, since he had not had a money-making movie in several years he could not find a studio that would finance what would be a multimillion dollar science fiction epic.

Coppola is not only a world-famous filmmaker but he’s also a very shrewd and successful businessman. His empire includes several wineries including Coppola vineyards, magazines, restaurants and hotels, cannabis, and online activities. In 2021 Coppola sold several of his wineries and when he could find no one to finance his film, he announced that he would self-finance the movie himself. At the start of production, the budget was set at $120 million and by January 2023 the reported overruns had cost the film an added $30 million. The film was originally to be shot using OSVP technology also known as The Volume. This is a system where a set is surrounded by 40-foot-high LED panels on which backgrounds and scenes and locations can be projected making that your scenery. This technology has been used in movies produced by Marvel and Star Wars. However, the technology of this system is extremely costly, and the budget quickly ballooned. Then Coppola and his team decided to pivot to a less costly and more traditional green screen approach.

I was very excited when I was cast as a wedding guest in an opulent scene that required about 300 background artists. I was going to get a chance to see Francis Ford Coppola directing up close and to see if the rumors about the film’s dysfunction and his decline were either true or false.

Most background fittings usually take 30 to 45 minutes tops, mine took over 4 hours. I was astonished at the number of costumes that I saw that took up an entire soundstage and the attention to detail on each costume. It quickly became clear why the costumes were so elaborate. Four-time Oscar winner, Milena Canonero was the costume designer and her staff was painstakingly fussy over each and every item. The style of the film costumes, hair, and sets might be called “modern Roman”. All our hair and gowns were done up in styles that would resemble what wealthy women wore during Roman times. Each morning after we got dressed in our lavish costumes, our hair and makeup took about an hour each day for each person. My hair alone took over an hour as my stylist pinned my long blond hair up, adding hair pieces and finally a fake diamond tiara that gave me a headache it weighed so much. The elaborate makeup took another 30 minutes. Multiple that by about 100 or more women and you can see how long it took for just background to get ready.   

The first day that I reported for shooting our location was Gas South Arena in Duluth, GA which was being used as a facsimile for Madison Square Garden. They had covered the entire floor of the auditorium in a thick layer of red dirt and on that placed three rings that gave it a circus atmosphere. That day we watched a chariot race, and male and female wrestlers perform in each one of the three rings. My first impressions of Mr. Coppola when he finally appeared on set surrounded by his massive crew and Roman, his son who is a cinematographer/director was that he was old and a little disorganized. Yet as I listened to background artists who have been working on the film since its beginning, it appeared that the overtime that it took to get the OSPV LED screens to work correctly was where much of the budget overruns came from. The other rumor was that many of his star actors came to set without knowing their lines. With great interest I listened to one background person who had been part of this scene with at least ten of the major stars for over a week and what had happened. The plan appeared to be for Mr. Coppola to spend two or three days filming this complex scene. Yet none of the actors seemed to know their lines and when they tried to rehearse, it just became obvious that this would not work. Instead, Francis decided to spend an entire day focused on each individual actor to get the different takes and styles he felt he needed. This expanded the time from two or three days to 10 days all with star actors on the clock getting paid. It seemed it was recurring situations like this that had started to cause budget overruns.

By the time I got to set, they had corrected that situation by ending each day after 12 hours. They had also gone to the green screens exclusively. What people forget about Francis Ford Coppola is that he is an improvisational director. Yes, he is done gigantic epics like Apocalypse Now and supposedly that ran into all kinds of budget overruns and time problems. However, early in his career Coppola was a filmmaker who made small personal films and was very improvisational in how he shot them. Sometimes he would change things at a moment’s notice. He brought that style to Megalopolis, and it was obvious that it was frustrating for the crew and perhaps even the cast. It’s hard to be improvisational when your crew is over 100 people, and you have four cameras going including a crane camera but somehow that’s what he managed to do.

On our second day we reported to the same location and the three rings of the circus were gone and replaced with a giant platform on which a Greek style temple had been built. That day we sat in the bleachers that posed for Madison Square Garden again and watched a parade of scantily dressed women walk around the stadium. Then four female aerial artists and Grace Vanderwaal, American singer, and actress, who plays one of the leads performed for about three or four hours to recorded dance music and vocals by Vanderwaal. After the scene was done the way that it was written, Coppola would begin to ask for changes: move the camera here, can you do the scene this way and then on the next take he would change it again. He might move a camera to another position or ask the crane to come in a different way or ask the dance number to change. With the crew this large it took time to make all these changes and it might seem confusing to somebody who had not been on the set for 24 hours over two days but it became apparent he was in complete control and knew exactly what was going on. They had a riot scene planned at the end of the dance section, and watching the stunt coordinator and Coppola add layer upon layer to the fight scenes was so interesting.

On top of that Francis is an old school gentleman. We never heard him curse or raise his voice. Each day he was dressed in a suit and was wonderfully nice and complementary to everyone and treated us with great dignity. Because the set was so big and he is 84 years old, he used a microphone to talk to everybody. The first day I was on set people talked over Francis and that did create confusion for people.  That did not happen on the second day.

When I returned a week later to complete this wedding scene we were now at Trilith Studios and our numbers have been reduced down to about 100. To get us in the mood for what we were going to be working on that day, Coppola showed a 5 minute clip of what we had shot the week before with Grace Vanderwaal and the aerialists It was amazing. The color correction, the editing, how the scene flowed together with this beautiful song sung by Grace was stunning. It’s not often on a film set that actors, background, and entire crew members stop to applaud a little vignette but that’s what happened. That day we watched parades of people walk by with us applauding for them. The group passing by included Dustin Hoffman, Talia Shire and Giancarlo Esposito. I almost got bumped up to have a line with Talia Shire unfortunately it went to someone else, but for a few moments I thought I was going to have a line in a Francis Ford Coppola movie.

I don’t know if this movie will be a success. I don’t know if the movie will be good or if it will make any money. All I know on those four days that I sat there and watched Mr. Coppola interact with his crew and his cast and all the background was a man who still knows what he’s doing and is in command of his craft. Perhaps chaos is part of his creative process, but it’s helped him make three of the greatest movies ever made and served him well through the rest of his career. If that little 5 minute sequence that I saw is any indication, Megalopolis is going to be beautiful and amazing. Thank you, Mr. Coppola. It was an awesome four days watching you work.

A Cost of Freedom, a forgotten film finds new life!!

Old Short Film Wins New Awards

For followers of the blog, you may know that I am a film maker and theatre director. I am very pleased to announce that my short film that I just released to the international film festival circuit just a few weeks ago has already won an award in one festival and is a finalist in another.

(There is a link to the film at the bottom of this page.)

REALE FILM FESTIVAL IN MILAN, ITALY

A Cost of Freedom was a short film conceived in 2004 and shot in 2005. The story is based on a short story by Italian writer, Luigi Pirandello, called War. Pirandello lived from 1867 to 1934. Pirandello’s basic story is a group of parents riding on a train after World War 1 all talking about how their sons died in the war. Some are proud, some are hopelessly sad, some are just hopeless. The story when I first read it in college has always provoked deep emotion in me about the futility of sending young men and women to war, while the makers of war never seem to fight themselves.

PRISMA FILM FESTIVAL IN ROME, ITALY

I was moved to make the film when I read about young men and women who were not US citizens but grew up in the States legally (green card holders) that volunteered to the various services when we were attacked in the 2001 World Trade Center attack (9/11). It has always been the policy of the US Armed Services to give full citizenship to these green card soldiers if they die in combat allowing them to get a military funeral and their families the few benefits that the armed services give out. Yet, when the Iraq War was started by the Bush administration they needed a lot of new soldiers because we were now fighting in Afghanistan and Iraq at the same time. President Bush got the law changed to now not only offer US citizenship to the dead soldier but to their immediate families as well. A lot of young green card holders saw this as a way to create a pathway to citizenship for their families so they joined the war effort. I took Pirandello’s story and mixed it with the stories of young non-US citizens fighting for us in Iraq to make a film which I felt paid honor to those sacrifices but also laid bare the hypocrisy of this system of using non-US citizens to fight in our wars.

ACTORS MORRIS SCHORR AND THERESE MCLAUGHLIN

Yet when I started to make the film, I found different people reacted to my little antiwar film script in very different ways, especially when I needed a real army uniform for one of my characters. The actor I chose for that part was actually a reserve officer but to use his uniform he had to get permission from his commander. To my everlasting surprise, the commander not only approved the use of the uniform but also gave us access to many other unit elements like official flags and posters and emblems.

ACTOR JOSE ANTONIO

And that has always been the reaction to the film. People have seen past my limited view of my own film to the human elements of love and grief and pride in these real life stories and Pirandello’s brilliant original short story.

ACTOR ABRAHAM CHAIDEZ

The film came out in 2007, a time where there was really no place to view short films. There were festivals back in the day, but it was an expensive and time consuming effort to get your films around the country and the world to be viewed with no real idea that it would be screened. So A Cost of Freedom just sat on a shelf for almost 16 years until a young film editor named Tal Anderson re-edited the film for me and updated the sound and some minor effects. Since its re-release, the film has won a Best Drama award at the Reale Film Festival in Milan, Italy and is now a Finalist at the Rome Prisma Independent Film Awards Festival (in Rome, Italy).

I want to congratulate my cast and crew from back in 2005 especially my producer, Vivian Best, who is now a famous feature photographer, plus my new film editor in 2021 for their hard work and efforts. The praise and accolades should have been there long ago, but at least people are now seeing and enjoying this story told by a lot of very talented people. There is a link to the film below –

Yours, James Carey – Filmmaker of A Cost of Freedom!

https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/638267918

https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/638267918

Mumbai and The Gateway to India

and the Elephanta Caves

My second day in India my friend, Lubna had to go to work. I decided to stay close to home and walked the less than 1 kilometer to the Gateway of India. The gateway is located on the island of Colaba in an area called Apollo Bunder. Located at the tip of Apollo Bunder, the gateway overlooks Mumbai harbor which is bordered by the Arabian Sea. It is surrounded by a series of 5 jetties and is directly across the street from the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower Hotel. The gateway is synonymous with the city of Mumbai. Built in 1911 to welcome the King and Queen of England, this stone archway in Colaba is now a historic landmark. Since its construction, the gateway has remained one of the most visited sites in all Mumbai.

Gateway to India

The gateway was built to commemorate the arrival of George V, Emperor of India and Mary of Teck, Empress consort, in India on 2 December 1911. It was the first visit of a British monarch to India. However, they only got to see a cardboard model of the monument, as construction did not begin until 1915. Before the gateway’s construction, Apollo Bunder used to serve a native fishing ground. Its foundations were completed in 1920 while construction was finished in 1924. The gateway was opened to the public on 4 December 1924 by then viceroy, Rufus Isaacs, 1st Marquess of Reading. Following Indian independence, the last British troops to leave India, the First Battalion of the Somerset Light Infantry, passed through the gateway with a 21-gun salute, as part of a ceremony on 28 February 1948, signaling the end of the British Raj.

Gateway to India

The monument is built of yellow basalt and reinforced concrete. The stones were sourced locally while the perforated screens were brought in. There are 4 turrets on the structure of the gateway, and there are steps behind the archway that lead down to the Arabian Sea. The Scottish architect, George Wittet combined elements of the Roman triumphal arch and Islamic architecture. The harbor front was realigned in order to make an Esplanade, which would sweep down to the center of town. On each side of the arch , there are 2 large halls with a capacity to hold 600 people. Due to a lack of funds, the approach road was never built therefore the gateway stands at an angle to the road leading up to it.

Gateway to India

The gateway was the location of a terror attack on 25 August 2003, when there was a bomb blast in front of it. The force of the explosion, from a bomb in a taxi parked near the Taj Mahal hotel, reportedly threw bystanders into the sea.  Following the terrorist attacks of November 2008, which targeted the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower Hotel opposite the gateway, among other locations, the area has become more restricted. While still crowds of thousands gathered there each day at the gateway but police presence and security monitoring is much stronger than it was before 2008 .

Gateway to India and Esplanade

Another thing that you can do from the Gateway of India is to go to the world famous Elephanta Caves. Starting at 9:00 AM, each morning colorful double-decker boats leave one of two jettys that are connected to the Esplanade and they will take you on a journey into the past.

Boats to Elephanta Caves

The journey by sea takes 1 hour to reach Elephanta Island. The island is located in Mumbai Harbor about 10 kilometers from the gateway. The caves are a collection of temples predominantly dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva. The caves and the statues are cut from solid rock, and the carvings narrate Hindu mythology with large monolithic statues. The Caves are from a time when faith, mysticism and art reign supreme, when the challenge of carving out gigantic statues and caves were accepted as a blessing. Both of these serve as awesome and beautiful examples of Hindu faith, and a testimony to the hard labor and belief of Indian ancestors.

Boats to Elephanta Caves

There are 2 types of launch: Economy and Deluxe. One is large, the other is slightly smaller in size. Travelling by either carries its own fun experience. A ticket for the Deluxe boat is Rs.150 for Adult, Rs. 90 for Child (3 to 7 years) which includes a return journey. If you want to see the view from the upper deck, you have to pay Rs.10/-extra to the launch (boat) operator. Economy boat charges are Rs. 20 less being Rs.130 for Adults.

The first boat of the day is at 9AM; they may wait a little bit for more passengers, but they will pretty much leave the dock on time. A boat leaves for Elephanta Island every 10 minutes. Week days are less crowded than weekends.

Elephanta Caves

The island and the caves are a UNESCO World Heritage site. Some of the work dates back to the 2nd century BC but most of the work seems to have been done between the 5th and the 7th century AD. There is a historical park on the island which you have to pay a fee to get into. There is a tourist tax of Rs 10 for adults and Rs 5 for children. At the entrance of the park, one needs to pay an entrance fee, Rs 40 for Indian citizens and Rs 600 for foreign nationals. Your ticket will be checked by a security guard on entry to the site.

Artwork in Caves

There are five caves you can visit. You can also walk up higher on the Island, on Cannon Hill. There are 2 old cannons there and a view, but nothing else to see.

Elephanta Caves

Take lots of pictures and show them to your friends later. Beware of the monkeys that roam around. They are quite used to the huge masses of people, but they do not like it when kids and even pesky teenagers tease them by throwing stones or making weird noises and gestures. There have been many cases of people being scratched or attacked by monkeys in retaliation. If left alone, they will usually leave you alone. Try to keep with a crowd, especially if you have some packed food with you and want to have a picnic in the area.

It is advisable to take lots of drinkable water with you from Mumbai itself.

Boats to Elephanta Caves

The first boat leaving Elephanta Island for Mumbai is at 12:00 noon and the last one is at 5:30PM. If you are fast, you can take the first boat from Mumbai to Elephanta Island, visit all caves, go up to Cannon Hill to see the old cannon, come back to the dockside, and take the first boat back to Mumbai.

Next: Mumbai and the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel

*Some information taken from Wikipedia and local tourist guidebooks of Colaba.

INDIA – MUMBAI

Arriving in a completely new culture!

I had been invited to Mumbai by my very good friend, Lubna to spend some time with her and her family. She was going to show me around Mumbai (Bombay) for a few days, then we’re going to journey up to Goa. From there, I would go to New Delhi on my own to see the capital and Agra which was just a couple of hours away.

Signs in Engish and Hindi

I landed at Chatrapati Shivaji International Airport about 5 :30 AM in the morning. All airports are basically the same. Some nicer and some not so, but it is all about waiting for your friends to arrive or pick you up, watch your plane to takeoff or land. Lubna finally arrived about 6:15 AM and we grab a taxi to take us across the city to her enclave, Colaba.

Street parking in Colaba

Watching the sun raise on this mega-city of 19 million was amazing. The contrasts between rich and poor, old and new, and feelings of passage of great time, but the sense of now were exhilarating to me! May be it was the lack of sleep or just being overwhelmed by the fact I was in India. A 3000 year old culture, and I was going to try and understand it in 3 weeks.

Street life

As Lubna and I rode across the city toward Colaba at 6;30 AM, the legendary Indian traffic was not in full view, but as we arrived in Colaba, the city was waking up and the streets began to fill with people and traffic. Cars, scooters, trucks, vans, motorbikes and tuk-tuks everywhere. On a road with 4 lanes for traffic, Indians would have created 6 or 7 traffic lanes. I had never seen traffic like this. It made Rome traffic look tame. And it would be even worse when I got to New Delhi.

More parking nightmares

Colaba is a wealthy enclave of Mumbai filled with high-end shops, clubs, bars, galleries and it very popular with tourists. The Gateway to India, the Taj Mahal Hotel and the Prince of Wales Museum are located here. Colaba is also the art center of Mumbai, with all the major galleries and museums located in and around this area. As you walk around the area, the buildings are old with some dating back 200 years. But inside the many apartment structures that look run-down by modern standards are state of the art, very modern apartments and residences. This is like the Beverly Hills of Mumbai but older and cooler. The area is very high density with crowded streets and endless traffic, yet it maintains an old English charm mixed with a very modern feel as well.

Somehow everyone gets to where they need too.

Of course, this area had been settled by Indians for 100’s of years before the first Europeans arrived. They were the Portuguese who were very far ahead of the rest of Europe in acquiring colonies in Asia. The Portuguese had acquired these lands from the Sultanate of Cambay in 1534. They would hang on to the area until 1661 when it became a wedding gift to the English when Charles II married a Portuguese princess. Then it would leased to the British East India Company in 1672, and then become part of the British Empire when the East India Company failed in 1857. That is when the British Raj era started lasting until 1947. The name the Brits gave this area was Wellington Pier.

The Royal Bombay Yacht Club

As you walk around Colaba, the English influence is everywhere, in the buildings, in the architecture, and how the streets are laid out. And there is no place in Colaba that is more British in feel then the Royal Bombay Yacht Club. This was where I was going to stay during my visit in Mumbai due to a large family event happening at Lubna’s home.

Official Crest of RBYC

The Royal Bombay Yacht Club is one of the premier gentlemen clubs which was founded in Colaba in 1846. When people still traveled by sea, the Royal Bombay Yacht Club would have been one of the first buildings visitors spotted when arriving in Mumbai harbor. Today, the waterfront venue remains popular because of its old-world charm. This colonial relic of the British Raj oozes history with its high ceilings and geometric tiled floors, along with a strict dress code and facilities that include sailing, a library and a billiards room. The private club has a prime location beside the popular Taj Mahal Palace hotel. The lounge, where wooden fans whirr overhead and staff in mock naval uniforms amble in and out, is rarely busy. Thanks to a ban on mobile phones, the dining room is the perfect place to eat dinner. It offers uncomplicated Indian and Chinese fare, or traditional British dishes. A full meal with drinks will set you back just Rs750 ($12) per person. Members from other sister clubs around the world can visit on a reciprocal basis, including the East India Club in London and yacht clubs everywhere from Monaco to Hong Kong.

The club has an exclusive membership and offers chambers for residence overlooking the Gateway Of India, a bar, a lounge, a restaurant, ballrooms, a club shop, a library and members sleeping room, in addition to sailing facilities in the Arabian Sea.

Hallway outside my room

  • My room was like stepping back in time. I felt like an Indian butler was going to walk through the door with a pot of Earl Grey or Darjeeling tea on a silver tray at any second. With huge high ceilings and whirling fans and a tile floor, the room was cool and inviting. Of course, before the invention of air conditioning, this room would have been a sweat box during the summer months in India.

  • My bathroom was gigantic, easily the size of my kitchen in my home in Los Angeles. The rest of the room included a large sleeping area, a walk-in closet that you could truly walk into, and a separate seating area. The room must have been 500 plus square feet. Filled with old but very comfortable furniture, large windows including a balcony that looked out over Colaba but of course it was too hot to use the balcony as I had arrived during August right in the middle of monsoon season.

  • There was an ocean breeze coming into the streets of Colaba but it was still one of the most humid places I had ever been in my life. If it wasn’t for the fact that I was in one of the most interesting cities in the world, I don’t think I would have ever left the cool darkness of my hotel room. And at $80 US a day it was really a bargain. The service and the staff were excellent. I truly felt like I had stepped back into the early 1920’s and 30s.
My room! I never wanted to leave.

After I checked in at the Royal Yacht Club and put my luggage in my room, Lubna and I went for a quick jaunt around the streets of Colaba. I had a real Indian breakfast and was fascinated by the street traffic and crowds and the sense of age yet vibrant energy of Mumbai. However the jet lag and the extremely high humidity got to me so by lunch time we had retreated to the club room at the Royal Bombay Yacht Club where we had a delightful lunch and a couple of cocktails. After all that I was knackered so I took a long nap and got ready to spend my first full evening experiencing the Nightlife of Mumbai.

COMING NEXT: MUMBAI AND THE GATEWAY TO INDIA

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