Category: World Travels

INDIA – MUMBAI

Arriving in a completely new culture!

I had been invited to Mumbai by my very good friend, Lubna to spend some time with her and her family. She was going to show me around Mumbai (Bombay) for a few days, then we’re going to journey up to Goa. From there, I would go to New Delhi on my own to see the capital and Agra which was just a couple of hours away.

Signs in Engish and Hindi

I landed at Chatrapati Shivaji International Airport about 5 :30 AM in the morning. All airports are basically the same. Some nicer and some not so, but it is all about waiting for your friends to arrive or pick you up, watch your plane to takeoff or land. Lubna finally arrived about 6:15 AM and we grab a taxi to take us across the city to her enclave, Colaba.

Street parking in Colaba

Watching the sun raise on this mega-city of 19 million was amazing. The contrasts between rich and poor, old and new, and feelings of passage of great time, but the sense of now were exhilarating to me! May be it was the lack of sleep or just being overwhelmed by the fact I was in India. A 3000 year old culture, and I was going to try and understand it in 3 weeks.

Street life

As Lubna and I rode across the city toward Colaba at 6;30 AM, the legendary Indian traffic was not in full view, but as we arrived in Colaba, the city was waking up and the streets began to fill with people and traffic. Cars, scooters, trucks, vans, motorbikes and tuk-tuks everywhere. On a road with 4 lanes for traffic, Indians would have created 6 or 7 traffic lanes. I had never seen traffic like this. It made Rome traffic look tame. And it would be even worse when I got to New Delhi.

More parking nightmares

Colaba is a wealthy enclave of Mumbai filled with high-end shops, clubs, bars, galleries and it very popular with tourists. The Gateway to India, the Taj Mahal Hotel and the Prince of Wales Museum are located here. Colaba is also the art center of Mumbai, with all the major galleries and museums located in and around this area. As you walk around the area, the buildings are old with some dating back 200 years. But inside the many apartment structures that look run-down by modern standards are state of the art, very modern apartments and residences. This is like the Beverly Hills of Mumbai but older and cooler. The area is very high density with crowded streets and endless traffic, yet it maintains an old English charm mixed with a very modern feel as well.

Somehow everyone gets to where they need too.

Of course, this area had been settled by Indians for 100’s of years before the first Europeans arrived. They were the Portuguese who were very far ahead of the rest of Europe in acquiring colonies in Asia. The Portuguese had acquired these lands from the Sultanate of Cambay in 1534. They would hang on to the area until 1661 when it became a wedding gift to the English when Charles II married a Portuguese princess. Then it would leased to the British East India Company in 1672, and then become part of the British Empire when the East India Company failed in 1857. That is when the British Raj era started lasting until 1947. The name the Brits gave this area was Wellington Pier.

The Royal Bombay Yacht Club

As you walk around Colaba, the English influence is everywhere, in the buildings, in the architecture, and how the streets are laid out. And there is no place in Colaba that is more British in feel then the Royal Bombay Yacht Club. This was where I was going to stay during my visit in Mumbai due to a large family event happening at Lubna’s home.

Official Crest of RBYC

The Royal Bombay Yacht Club is one of the premier gentlemen clubs which was founded in Colaba in 1846. When people still traveled by sea, the Royal Bombay Yacht Club would have been one of the first buildings visitors spotted when arriving in Mumbai harbor. Today, the waterfront venue remains popular because of its old-world charm. This colonial relic of the British Raj oozes history with its high ceilings and geometric tiled floors, along with a strict dress code and facilities that include sailing, a library and a billiards room. The private club has a prime location beside the popular Taj Mahal Palace hotel. The lounge, where wooden fans whirr overhead and staff in mock naval uniforms amble in and out, is rarely busy. Thanks to a ban on mobile phones, the dining room is the perfect place to eat dinner. It offers uncomplicated Indian and Chinese fare, or traditional British dishes. A full meal with drinks will set you back just Rs750 ($12) per person. Members from other sister clubs around the world can visit on a reciprocal basis, including the East India Club in London and yacht clubs everywhere from Monaco to Hong Kong.

The club has an exclusive membership and offers chambers for residence overlooking the Gateway Of India, a bar, a lounge, a restaurant, ballrooms, a club shop, a library and members sleeping room, in addition to sailing facilities in the Arabian Sea.

Hallway outside my room

  • My room was like stepping back in time. I felt like an Indian butler was going to walk through the door with a pot of Earl Grey or Darjeeling tea on a silver tray at any second. With huge high ceilings and whirling fans and a tile floor, the room was cool and inviting. Of course, before the invention of air conditioning, this room would have been a sweat box during the summer months in India.

  • My bathroom was gigantic, easily the size of my kitchen in my home in Los Angeles. The rest of the room included a large sleeping area, a walk-in closet that you could truly walk into, and a separate seating area. The room must have been 500 plus square feet. Filled with old but very comfortable furniture, large windows including a balcony that looked out over Colaba but of course it was too hot to use the balcony as I had arrived during August right in the middle of monsoon season.

  • There was an ocean breeze coming into the streets of Colaba but it was still one of the most humid places I had ever been in my life. If it wasn’t for the fact that I was in one of the most interesting cities in the world, I don’t think I would have ever left the cool darkness of my hotel room. And at $80 US a day it was really a bargain. The service and the staff were excellent. I truly felt like I had stepped back into the early 1920’s and 30s.
My room! I never wanted to leave.

After I checked in at the Royal Yacht Club and put my luggage in my room, Lubna and I went for a quick jaunt around the streets of Colaba. I had a real Indian breakfast and was fascinated by the street traffic and crowds and the sense of age yet vibrant energy of Mumbai. However the jet lag and the extremely high humidity got to me so by lunch time we had retreated to the club room at the Royal Bombay Yacht Club where we had a delightful lunch and a couple of cocktails. After all that I was knackered so I took a long nap and got ready to spend my first full evening experiencing the Nightlife of Mumbai.

COMING NEXT: MUMBAI AND THE GATEWAY TO INDIA

The TSA Blues – Opinion

So recently, I went to get my TSA Pre-Check eligibility in Los Angeles. I paid $85 for a 5 year membership to be able to bypass the long security lines at airports in the US. The ability to not have to pull my computer out, have to take my shoes off, or have a surly TSA agent stick their hand in my private areas. That sounded like a really good deal to me if for no other reason than just in terms of sheer time saved.

So I was eager to check out how this would work on my first international flight since receiving my TSA Pre-Check approval. I have been sometimes selected for this program randomly, but not officially. I had already booked a flight to Copenhagen after I had applied for the program (which takes about 3 to 4 weeks) so when I got my KTN # (Known Traveler Number) I called my carrier, Norwegian Airlines to give them my number. I was kindly told in a sing-song Scandinavian voice that Norwegian did not take part in the program so I could not use my KTN for this flight.

OK, I had to stand in line like everyone else again. Ok, I could that. I had done that before – many times if you have read my blog before. However, what follows are the worst two experiences that I or my family have ever had at the hands of the TSA.

I am all for border protection and legal immigration. I am all for the rule of law and applying it equally. I am not however, for a bunch of foul-mouth, self-entitled, rude, self-important jerk-offs yelling at US citizens, legal Green Card holders, and proper visitors to the US with proper visas, especially when those being yelled at are myself and my wife. The TSA feels that they are answerable to no one and that should change ASAP.

My wife had gone to Europe to see her family for 3 weeks, and I was joining her for the last 10 days in Hamburg, Germany. We were going to return together on a Norwegian Airline flight from Copenhagen and land in Los Angeles.

I should explain here that my wife is from Denmark. She has lived here for 7 years, and we have been married going on 5 years. Her permanent green card application has taken forever. In older days, the process took about 2 years from applying to receiving your permanent residence card that would be good for up to 10 years before you have to reapply. During that two-year period, the applicant was granted a temporary Green Card which allowed them to stay, and exit or enter the USA. Now because of Obama, Trump, 9/11 and other factors, this process can take up to 4 years and still not be resolved. The people going through this process are not illegal, but that temporary card can be taking away at anytime. And that can and does create a lot of anguish and anxiety for the individuals and their families.

Applying for the card is also an expensive choice costing with legal fees more than 3000 dollars with no guarantee that you will be allowed to stay. You can choose to do this process yourself to save some money, but it will still cost upwards of 1500 dollars. Once you are granted temporary status, it can be taken away at a moment’s notice and you are put on a plane at once and away you go back to your home country, even if you are married to a US citizen. If you are here on a visa of any nature and it runs out and you do not return to your home country, the only other choice you have other than marriage is to go underground. That is what many immigrants used to do, but if you are ever caught you are banned from entering the USA in many cases, forever. So the idea that getting a permanent green card is easy or simple, or that you can fake it by getting married is simply not true. It is a long, hard process that is expensive and is very stressful on a person or family.

Now Los Angeles is one of the busiest entry points into the USA. A TSA customs employee told me that at any one time there are 3000 people standing in line at customs waiting to be processed, and more than that are processed through the security lines. That is every working hour of the day – 7 days a week. That is a lot of people, stress and constant screening to process. It can put an amazing strain on people and a system. Yet, that is no excuse for bad and rude behavior to citizens and visitors alike just because your job is stressful. And TSA is making no excuses for its incredibly awful service and terrible treatment of people.

So I get to the airport and get my e-ticket for my flight to Denmark. I stand in the 45 minute line to get into the security line. One of my complaints is that no airport is the same in terms of how they handle this procedure. Every single one of them does it different, and at LAX which has 7 terminals – they do it all different as well. So there is no standard, no set way. Different places want you do to different things. And with the increase of machines helping with moving the bags and shoes, and new x-ray machine the process is constantly changing. Plus at LAX because of the sheer number of people, the guards scream instructions at you all the time. Someone should train them to understand that humans automatically turn off paying attention when someone screams at them continuously. We just tune out.

This day the message being screamed at us was”…nothing in your pockets at all. No passport, wallet, paper – nothing. Put everything in the container.” I managed to do that, however I always keep my boarding pass with me, so I stuck it in my back pocket. I go through the x-ray machine, and I am immediately pulled out of line and surrounded by two TSA guards.

They showed me the x-ray image where there is something in my back pocket. I pull out my boarding pass. A single piece of paper. But because of this I am now going to experience a full body search instead of a wand. I asked why and they said that it was a new policy. They were professional about it – telling me what they were going to touch and I said ok – meanwhile, my computer, passport, wallet, medicine, shoes were waiting at the end of the collection point where anyone could have taken them.

They checked my waistband, my pockets in the back and felt up my butt. “Now turn around!” I asked why because the x-ray clearly showed that there was nothing in the front part of my body. “Procedure” was the answer has he felt up my legs, grabbed my privates very hard and checked my front pockets. Than I was told to take off my socks? What were they going to find in two sport socks? At this point, I began to complain loudly about the overkill. I have a KTN number, it was a piece of paper, nothing in my socks. The sock check was over so I grabbed them and started away. I was shoved back into place by a large female officer, and when I pointed out that my passport was out in the open for almost 10 minutes now – she literally screamed in my face, “…we have cameras all over the place. No one is going to steal your lousy passport.” This is the same TSA that has failed every major test of their system since testing began. Sure they were going to notice one guy’s passport being pick up at the end of the conveyor belt.

Than they checked my hands of whatever chemicals that they check for – Pass. Than I was dismissively told to “move along.” That did it. His and his partner’s entire attitude was offensive and over the top. I told the officer that he was rude and this entire procedure was a pure power play. That the full body check was entirely unnecessary because of a single piece of paper that they could clearly see in the image screen. He demanded to know if I want to speak to a supervisor. I told him what was the point – 10 minutes had already been wasted, and I would simply be put in another room to file my complaint and more time would be wasted. But I retold them that they were very rude. As I walked away the female officer screamed again, “Did I want to speak to a supervisor?”

As I collected my items that had sat on the conveyor belt for 15 minutes almost and started to check if everything was there, I realized I was extremely upset. I have heard about rude or over the top behavior by TSA agents, but had never experienced myself in all the trips I have taken. I felt like I had been assaulted almost.  A man standing next to me who must have seen part of the exchange stated to me that he had a Pre-Check number and he got pulled out every time. His comment was he did not know why he had gotten the KTN# because it was basically useless. I wondered to myself if the same fate would happen for me now.

Then the return –

So the brief history of my wife. She is a Danish citizen and while waiting for her permanent Green Card to come, her Danish passport expired. So she sent off for another from Denmark which took about 6 weeks, and in the meantime she got an extension placed in her old passport by the local immigration office. We are lucky that we live in LA, so there is a local one. Yet, if during that time a family member or emergency happened in her home country, she could not travel at all. No airline would accept her and no country would receive her until she had proper travel documents.

Plus because the process takes so long now, her temporary green card had expired. But instead of giving her a new card, the US made her travel with an expired temporary green card and a visa extension in her expired Danish passport. Her Danish passport is in her maiden name so each time she travels anywhere, she carries two passports (one old with the extension visa and the new passport), her marriage license with her married name, and her expired Green Card also in her married name.

Now just before her trip, she got notice that her permanent Green Card was approved she was here in the country permanently – but they would send the card in about 3 to 4 weeks. She would receive the card after her return to the country.  So for this trip she carried the 2 passports, the expired Green card, her marriage license and the letter that said she had the permanent card with the ID# on it.

She had done this trip to Denmark about 4 time now, plus trips with me to Cuba, Mexico (twice) and Canada. She is always questioned but not for long and customs is relatively easy.

Recently, her fingerprints ended up in the system, so now she is pulled out of line every time and taken to a sealed TSA room known as “secondary check”. Here she is told to sit for up to an hour while they check her through the computer system. This is always on a first come, first serve basis. There is no allowance for green card holders and people already with the proper visas. The secondary check is for anyone that may appear on the screen of the customs agent at the first check-in. If they see anything that flags you, you are escorted by an armed officer to the secondary check room for the reason they were flagged.

This is not the little room that they show in all the movies with two-way mirrors and agents staring at you trying to figure out which country you are a spy for. This is a large room where everyone is treated like cattle. No one but the officer and the person pulled out of line can go inside. There is no cell phone communication allowed inside. None whatsoever. There is no time limit as to all long they can keep you, they will answer no questions about the person inside from anyone including family. They handle many languages and cultures and constantly have to deal with people who are confused, scared or literally do not speak English. So it is hard on the personnel and the person pulled out of line and can created some very stressful and tense situations. Yet again that does not excuse really rude behavior from anyone or agency.

My wife was in this room for 3 hours (a visit that has always only taken an hour), while I waited outside after a 12 hour flight and 2 hour check in that the Copenhagen airport. I was not allowed to know what was happening with her, and when I asked I was told in no uncertain terms to sit down and be quiet. So I sat in baggage claim for three hours with her bags and no idea if or when she would get out. She did manage to secretly text me a couple of times, but it was just to let me know she was still ok.

While there she witnessed TSA officers threatening legal immigrants with deportation if they did not shut up. Pulling cell phones out of confused foreigners’ hands who did not speak English and screaming at them. Not letting mothers talk to their children. Not letting relatives speak to the people in the room. There were chairs for about 12 people and there were more than 50 people in the room, so people had to sit on the floor. Why does this process need to be so aggressive and ugly?  What is the point of this kind of behavior by professional airport and customs officials?

Now again let me state that I want border protection. I want to feel safe when I fly, but I don’t want officials of my country screaming at me and mine, or legal visitors and residents because they are over worked. There is no excuse for it. I wish someone in Washington would do something about this, but in the current political climate that is not going to happen, and this problem of rude, overworked, over-entitled TSA officers and personnel is only going to get worse.

Temptation Resort Cancun – Review – Cancun, Mexico

PLAYGROUND FOR ADULTS!

It was a coldish December (for Los Angeles) and I had just received news that my teaching contract was not going to be renewed for the next semester. I had also just been hired to be the Artistic Director of a theatre company in Los Angeles. Changes were in the air and I needed to get away some place where I did not have to think about anything except where the next meal or drink was coming from.

I made a list of what I wanted from this get-away. Hot (or warmish), chance at a tan, inclusive of all meals and drinks, chance to meet people, and adults only (meaning no kids in the pool). I started looking at any place that kind of met that list, but it had to be inclusive – I did not want to leave the property once I got there UNLESS I wanted too.

Hawaii does not do inclusive. They have deals that look like that – but they are really different merchants that have been packaged by travel agents to look like that they are all together. Asia too far to fly. I had just completed an around the world trip 3 months before and I did not want to sit on another plane for 12 hours to get anywhere. Central America seemed pretty cool, but Costa Rica deals for that time of year were pretty high and Belize while interesting, I had to travel for a couple of hours outside the capitol to get to anywhere nice. I just wanted to get in a taxi and be there.

I know I sound like the whinny type of tourist – but sometimes you do not want an adventure, you want to rest and relax and not worry about catching that bus or climbing 1000 stairs to see an awesome landmark or view. I want to hang by a pool and watch the world walk by.

So, I turned to the Caribbean, and began to look at lists of best inclusive spots in the islands. Many came up – some really nice and expensive, some allowed the whole family, some for couples only, some like Hedonism II for adults only for adult activities (you understand that right?). I was flying solo and did not want to end up the third wheel to an entire hotel, or deal with sullen teenagers who could not get a strong wifi single in Haiti or Cuba. I was on a budget and could not afford places that were 700 per night or even 300 per night. Cheap, nice, inclusive and easy to get too.

An odd thing caught my eye while I was researching places, and I admit I was a little shocked at first. I am a single adult male who has a strong appreciation for the other gender of our species, yet I was really surprised to see the ads for inclusive resorts in the Dominican Republic where hookers were part of the price. Prostitution is legal in the DR, and there are resorts there (not all) that cater to men of all ages who are looking to spend their time having as much sex as their wallet could afford – the sex is included with the meals and drinks. Very convenient. And the resorts have reviews that talk about the food, drinks, girls, and the premises of the resort. Upscale, low scale. I am not a prude by any stretch – topless or nude beaches or resorts for swinger couples – all fine. Yet, a vacation based on the idea of paid impersonal sex just seemed very slimy and rather pathetic to me.

After a lot of comparing of prices, flights, travel time to the actual resort while on the ground, what the term inclusive meant for that resort, reviews about food, entertainment, cleanliness and staff response, I had it down to three places. The final challenge was made by whether if you were a solo at an adult only resort was the resort solo friendly. And the resort I choose passed all those tests with great reviews and an awesome price.

Temptation Resort Cancun was the place that I choose for my Christmas, solo, inclusive resort getaway. And here is my honest review.

I flew into Cancun on a warm, clear day of about 84 F. I cleared customs and was meet at the entrance by my shuttle company – USA Transfers – which I found online when looking for shuttles to the hotel. Great reviews and a very good price. I paid 50 US up front to be taken there and a promise of being picked up to go home at a pre-arranged time. You book with them online giving them your arrival and departure times. After you are picked up at the airport, you pay the first driver in cash when you arrive at the hotel on the first ride and that pays for both rides. You have already exchanged emails when you made the reservation and that is how they will confirm with you the pickup time. Everything with them was smooth as glass. Both to the hotel and during the pickup time back to the airport, things were on time, no extra charges, the vehicle was new and clean, driver spoke excellent English and tolerated my very bad Spanish, beer-soda-water was available complementary, and the driving was very safe. I cannot recommend USA Transfers highly enough. And as they stated, they confirmed everything by email a couple of days in advance. There can be extra charges for changing times or adding destinations.

I arrived at Temptation and from the outside, while it is a big hotel featuring 7 floors and 428 rooms and suites – there is nothing to prepare you for what is inside.  You walk up the wide front stairs and pass thru large glass doors into a huge reception/lobby area. A huge marble hall with floor to ceiling windows at one end that look out on Cancun Harbor with reception is on your right, the concierge on your left and in front of you on a raised dais is a huge bar placed in front of the windows. Through the windows you can see that you entered the second floor of the hotel, because beyond the indoor bar and glass windows is the main party area of the hotel. At night this area becomes “Bash” the hotel’s nonstop party with a bar stretching at least 300 feet in length on one side and on the other is a long buffet with chefs who will also cook you specialty items. Featuring a raised dance/presentation area where the nightly entertainment performs, the patio looks out on the resort’s “Sexy Pool” area with a swim up bar, DJ, and optional topless swimming that goes until the sun goes down.

Temptation advertises itself as “the Playground for Adults”, and it is that with the 21 and above age limit. The hotel features 7 restaurants, 5 bars, 2 pool areas and beach access (also topless). For the high rollers, who are members of the resort (you can buy a membership to the resort which opens certain special areas and services) there is a private roof top pool and bar area on the seventh floor of the hotel.

I was first booked into a room that faced onto the “Bash” area that was very modern and clean. The bed was very comfortable, and each room as a private balcony. The night-time party started about 8 PM and went until 1:45 AM in the morning. With the loud boom music and lights and DJ and dancers, this basically becomes a huge outdoor dance club. The noise level was a little too much for me, so I asked to move; and they gave me an equally nice room on the other side of the hotel that was very private and quiet.

The decor of the hotel is bright colors and smooth textures with a lot of erotic abstract art pieces around. Having a cocktail on your own private balcony with a warm Caribbean breeze blowing is not a bad way to watch a breathtaking sunset.

The food at some inclusive resorts borders on uneatable, but at Temptation the food for the most part was excellent. There is one huge buffet area that faces onto the pool where breakfast and lunch are served. Take as much as you want and bring a drink from one of the bars, or the waiter staff will get whatever you want. The other restaurants that open only at night offer about 15 different cuisines. I ate in all the featured restaurants and the food was very good. And all the bars serve top of the line brands.

There also all kinds of beach activities which are free, like small catamarans, paddle boards, and kayaks. The hotel also tries to create all kinds of ways for guests to interact with each other. Poolside contests, volleyball, and yoga classes are just a few. The staff is very friendly and tries very hard to please. I had some trouble with hot water in my second room, but they jumped on it right away. It took a day to fix, but I felt the effort was real so I dealt with the cold water for a day. Besides it was 85 outside, so not that cold.

Ultimately, the resort met all my needs and was above par. I wanted a quiet (relatively) vacation with sun, fun, drink, food and an adult only atmosphere and I got it. And for a very fair price. The topless optional and adult outlook on clothing and behavior were nice but not the reason that I was there. As solo, I was concerned that it would be all couples, but there were plenty of solos there as well. If you want to find someone to talk to or meet there are plenty of opportunities. I recommend the resort if you are open-minded and willing to try something a little different. But this is not for family, this is a resort that focuses on couples and the sensual.

Christmas Day on Isla Mujeres – Riviera Maya, Quintana Roo, Mexico

Staying in Cancun over the Christmas holidays, I decided to leave my all-inclusive escape bubble and journey out to see some of the amazing Yucatan beauty. I have been to Cancun before and seen the Mayan ruins, visited Tulum and Playa del Carmen, but had never ventured to Isla Mujeres, a beautiful little island about 30 minutes ferry ride from Cancun.

While there are several ferry companies to choose from, the easiest by far is Ultramar Passenger Ferry which has 4 different launch sites just in the Cancun area. One of them was literally next door to my hotel. The cost was $19 US round trip and they took US dollars, Pesos, and credit cards. From my location trips left almost every hour and half with the last trip going to the island at 8:45 PM. Final return trip from the island was at 9:15 PM.

 

You land at the Passenger terminal docks right in the middle of downtown Isla Mujeres. A magical little town full of tourist shops, all types of hotels and hostels, bars and restaurants, transportation businesses that rent bikes, mopeds, and golf carts. The downtown is also right next to Playa Norte, considered one to the best beaches in the Caribbean (locals say the world). It is a 5 mile stretch of beautiful white sand located on the northern part of the island. It is full year-round with tourists from all over the world mixing with the locals making for a very bohemian feel. It is also an amazing place to watch a Caribbean sunset while drinking a cool brew!

Preferred transportation is by moped or golf cart that are very easy to find all over the downtown area of Isla Mujeres. Golf carts rent for 200 pesos for an hour to 700 pesos for all day. Current exchange rate is about 17 pesos to 1 US dollar. I rented a golf cart for three hours and it was a perfect way to travel around the island even if it was not very fast. As you travel south out of downtown you pass through the residential areas of Isla Mujeres. Like all parts of Mexico you will find nice and poor areas, but overall the standard of living on the island is rather high. The Cancun area has an unemployment rate of under 2 percent.

After about 20 minutes you will come to a fork in the road. To the left will lead you to Punta Sur with the old lighthouse, an Mayan fort with a sculpture garden on the cliffs above the end of island, and to the east coast road back to downtown. To the right will take you up a thin peninsula that leads back toward the north. Here you will find several private luxury hotels and the famous Tortugranja (Turtle Farm) and the Dolphin Discovery park. Breathtaking views are in all directions as you travel around the island. To completely cover the island without many stops would take about an hour but each few feet there is another view, another place to relax with a cold beer or another taqueria serving delicious fresh seafood.

As you drive up the eastern coast road you continue to pass amazing views of the Atlantic although the coast here is much rockier. Also, this part of the island has some amazing private homes that reflect the great wealth that this part of Mexico has, and the very interesting mix of architecture brought by the different cultures that have passed through this area in the last 500 years.

Returned to the town of Isla Mujeres around sunset, turned in the golf cart, and had a very lovely dinner on the beach watching a sunset while eating fresh fish tacos. Caught the 6:45 ferry back to Cancun and was in my hotel room by 7:30 PM. A perfect Christmas day!

Other things to do on Isla Mujeres are to take advantage of the world-class snorkeling and scuba diving. Dive shops exist all over the island. Another huge attraction for diving and snorkeling fans is the famous MUSA Underwater Museum of Art which is an underwater museum located in the National Marine Park surrounding the Cancun, Isla Mujeres, and Punta Nizuc area. MUSA contains over 500 sculptures of more than six different artists. The sculptures provide areas for coral growth and contribute to give shelter for fish. The Museum highlights the relationship between art and environmental science, and all of the sculptures are made from materials that promote coral life. The museum can be enjoyed by both divers and snorkelers.

Berlin’s Holocaust Memorials – Berlin, Germany

In the last 80 years, the city of Berlin may have gone through more changes than anywhere else in Europe. First, the capital of a struggling and failing democracy, then the capital of a monstrous totalitarian regime, then an invaded city, then a divided city, then the epicenter of a political battle of the two most powerful entities in the world, then a united city, and now like a phoenix rising from the ashes, the capital of the most powerful democracy in Europe. That is a lot of history both good and bad, and Berlin faces that history in both celebration and somber recollection.

Two of the most somber places to face some of that dark history are the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, also known as the Jewish Holocaust Memorial, and the Memorial to the Sinti and Roma Victims of National Socialism. The first is a memorial to the murdered Jewish people throughout Europe during the Nazis’ reign of terror, and the second is a memorial to that minority that Hitler almost eliminated in his racial purges, the Sinti and Roma peoples. The Sinti and Roma are nomadic people found throughout Europe and the United States. Often both groups are referred to as Roma, collectively, they are popularly referred to as Gypsies.

Before the Second World War, Berlin had one of the largest Jewish populations in Europe, and the Murdered Jews memorial seems to speak to that history. With its location in the city centre directly across from Tiergarten, Berlin’s large main park, and near to both the Reichstag building and the Brandenburg Gate, the monument provides a central reference point for visitors.

The monument is composed of 2711 rectangular concrete blocks, laid out in a grid formation, the monument is organized into a rectangle-like array covering about 5 acres. The design allows for long, straight, and narrow alleys between them while the ground below them undulates in dips and rises. Designed by American architect Peter Eisenman, the number of slabs (or stelaes) is not symbolic, but rather fit the dimensions designed by Eisenman. The slabs are made of gray concrete treated with a protective chemical coating that allows for the easy removal of graffiti and other forms of defacement.

There are many interpretations to the memorial design. Eisenman’s own description states, “the stelae are designed to produce an uneasy, confusing atmosphere, and the whole sculpture aims to represent a supposedly ordered system that has lost touch with human reason.” The most common is that of a graveyard. And another is that the size, scale and straight lines of the design evoke the discipline and unquestioning bureaucratic order that kept the killing machine grinding along. There are parts of the memorial where you entered a dip and you are surrounded by massive blocks that cut you off from the sights and sounds of the city around you.

Beneath the slabs, is the real center of the memorial. The information center, which is located underground at the site’s eastern edge, begins with a timeline that lays out the history of the Final Solution, from when the National Socialists (Nazis) took power in 1933 through the murder of 500,000 Soviet Jews in 1941. The rest of the exhibition is divided into four rooms dedicated to personal aspects of the tragedy, like reading of the letters thrown from the trains that transported the Jews to the death camps, or The Room of Families which focuses on the fates of 15 specific Jewish families from different parts of Europe, or the Room of Names, where names of all known Jewish Holocaust victims obtained from the Yad Vashem memorial in Israel are read out loud.

To walk through these rooms is both humbling and horrifying. Humbling in the realization of the millions of people who suffered just because of their race, religion or sexual orientation. And horrifying when you realize the sheer scale of the Final Solution, and its amazing ability and efficiency to care out that goal.  You have to look for the information center, and many critics have questioned the placement of the center. It is underground and not well-marked, but while the above slabs of concrete evoke a graveyard, the personal stories you hear of ruined lives and families and survival in the information center will break your heart.

The complete opposite of the Jewish Holocaust Memorial is the small, quiet, almost hidden Memorial to the Sinti and Roma Victims of National Socialism. The memorial is located inside Tiergarten just north of the Brandenburg Gate. This monument is dedicated to the memory of the 220,000 – 500,000 people murdered in the Porajmos – the Nazi genocide of the European Sinti and Roma peoples.

The memorial was designed by Israeli artist Dani Karavan and consists of a dark, circular pool of water at the centre of which there is a triangular stone. The triangular shape of the stone is in reference to the badges that had to be worn by concentration camp prisoners. The stone is retractable, and a fresh flower is placed upon it daily. In bronze letters around the edge of the pool is the poem ‘Auschwitz’ by Roma poet Santino Spinelli.

While thousands stream through the other memorial because of its location and unique design, this quiet pool attracts far fewer people, but the message is no less powerful. The pool, the poem written along the pool, and the quiet respect people show give this small memorial a power that truly moves you.

There are certainly more fun thinks to do in Berlin, but importance that the city itself places on these memorials in the heart of Berlin make them essential places to visit. Not only to reflect on those who have gone, but to make sure horrors like this near occur again.

(Many of the facts about the Memorials were supplied by Wikipedia and other sources.)

Love Letter to Zim (Zimbabwe)

 

Zimbabwe beautiful landscape

Definition of Terms:
Zim – Nickname for the country of Zimbabwe.

Zimbo (s) – people born and raised in Zimbabwe. Currently living there or abroad are always Zimbos in their heart.

Eish – an all-purpose expression by Zimbos to signify amazement, frustration, excitement, or acceptance of something they cannot change.

Capital City, Harare

Last night in the capital city of Harare, Zimbabwe around 4 AM in the morning, the military forces of the country removed the 93-year-old dictator who had ruled for over 41 years and showed him the door. Bloodlessly, I might add so far. Presently, he is under house arrest in his 26-bedroom mansion awaiting his fate.

Zimababwe’s President Robert Mugabe in 2000 (AP Photo/Christine Nesbitt)

The dictator is Robert Mugabe, also known to his fellow Zimbos as “Uncle Bob”. For most Zimbos, that is not a term of endearment, but a name that symbolized that unwanted family member who is always there, stealing your food or DVD’s or extra cash from your wallet, never returning anything he borrowed, and constantly threatening your kids to behavior and respect him. In other words, the uncle who is a total jackass! Only difference with “Uncle Bob” is that he did all these things at gunpoint. Robert Mugabe was a ruthless, brutal man who was highly educated and very intelligent that managed through intimidation and murder to hang on to power for four decades.

CIty Centre, Harare

This morning Zimbos around the world woke up with a collective “Eish”, as people did not know what to think or whether to believe the news that they were hearing. Even at this moment on the ground in Zim, the news about what is going on is guarded and sketchy.

For those of you who do not know, Zimbabwe is located in the south-eastern part of Africa just above the country of South Africa. At one time it was one of the richest of all African countries, but after 40 years of “Uncle Bob” it is now one of the poorest with a broken economy, almost worthless money, and raging unemployment.

Driving into Mutare

It is also one of the most beautiful, friendly, and hopeful places on the planet Earth. That is why I am writing this love letter to Zim and my fellow Zimbos. No, I was not raised there, but I have come to think of Zim as my second home. During 2012 to 2015, I lived and worked in Harare and all around Zim for a total of about 6 months. I traveled to all corners of the country and came to love its beautiful rivers, warm climate, lush forests, open savannahs with endless skies that make Montana’s Big Sky Country look small in comparison, dark evening skies filled with stars and its friendly, welcoming people.

I first went to Zim to work with a local arts NGO known as NIAA as a judge for their national drama festival. The next two years, I worked with them to develop an education program for rural teachers. The final year that I was there, I directed and co-produced a play for the country’s leading theatre organization, Reps Theatre in Harare. I also debuted a one-man show there and toured it around Zim and South Africa. My local Zim friends began to call me “an honorary Zimbo” for my obvious affection for their country and culture. Whether that was a joke or not, I took it as a serious compliment. So much so that I almost sold my home in Los Angeles and moved there full time to work as a theatre artist and teacher.

Workshop with Rural Drama Teachers

Why didn’t I move there if I love it so much? Well, I have to admit I am a product of my country, the USA. I like to be able to turn on a light and have it work every time. I like being able to drink the water from my tap. I like to be able to know that my money is worth something and it will always be that way. I like being able to openly complain about the idiot who is currently running my country without getting locked up. Zimbos could not do that. You always had to watch what you said in public and to whom. Eish!

Yet, every morning people all over Zim woke up not knowing if anything worked or what the government would take from them that day. Bob beat them down for 40 years, but what I remember was a people who were endlessly cheerful and hopeful. That is all they had to hang onto. Hope that one day it would get better. One day Uncle Bob would finally leave. And there would the opportunity to have things be better again. HOPE.

Zim’s iconic airport

But now after 40 years of turmoil and oppression and diminishing returns, he may be gone. Cannot say so yet, because Uncle Bob is a tricky guy with a lot of resources. Yet, there may be some hope for Zim yet. A chance to start over and realize the potential that these amazing people have and return their country to at least part of its former glory.

Zimbabwe is home of one of the oldest civilizations in sub-Saharan Africa. When the Portuguese found the Zimbos’ (known as the Shona) capital city (Great Zimbabwe) during the 1500’s, that city was already over 800 years old. There is a lot of history, a lot of pride and a lot of determination in Zim. Hopefully, they will get a government that they truly deserve, and it will allow them to flourish.

Kwe-Kwe main drag

As they say in Zim when things need to get done, “Let’s make a plan.” Hopefully, there are a lot of Zimbos making plans right now for a brighter future.

Fabulous Berlin – Germany

Which Berlin do you want to visit? Because there are so many Berlins all rolled into one. There is the modern capital Berlin building itself into the 21st Century with construction going on everywhere. There is the nightlife and decadent Berlin with endless clubs, fetish bars and late-night raves where 100’s of people line up to get into private places thumping to the endless electronic beat that Germany seems to love so much. There is the cultured Berlin filled with museums and historic buildings plus the exciting avant-garde music, theatre, art and film scenes exploring everything at the same time. Or the quiet, circumspect Berlin paying homage to the victims of its turbulent past with memorials and exhibits to the past and hoping for the future.

Berlin Wall Walking Museum

Which one do you want? But why choose, because you can have them all at the same time. You can experience many, many things in the wonderful and exciting city that is grounded in the past but reaching for the future with both hands.

Over the last couple of decades, Berlin has become a construction zone with ripped up streets and giant cranes overhead in every part of the city. It is the rebirth of a great European capital right in front of your eyes. City planners seized on the opportunity of the city’s reunification and the return of the central government to completely rebuild Berlin. What used to be rundown, Soviet East Berlin is now the new, modern, vibrant heart of the city filled with shops, hotels, clubs, and soaring modern buildings and plazas. While what used to be West Berlin feels more residential like a very chic suburb. And this is all linked by one of the best metro systems in Europe. You can get anywhere in Berlin in a matter of minutes by train, metro, tram, bus and using your feet.

Remains of the Anhalter Branhof

I stayed in Central Berlin for a week in an AirBnb apartment located across the street from the S. Anhalter Bahnhof (an old pre-WW II train station), now a subway station. The amount of nightlife, clubs and bars that I could walk to in a few blocks was pretty amazing. While I was technically in West Berlin, I was only a few blocks from Checkpoint Charlie (where East Berlin used to begin) and Friedrichstrasse. Along Friedrichstrasse, there are literally hundreds of clubs, cafes, hotel bars, restaurants and other night spots that stretch for blocks from the Checkpoint north up to the Spree River. Yet, all over Berlin there are neighbor restaurants, cafes and bars. Right in the same building complex that I was staying in was the well-known Solar Sky Bar, very upscale bar visited by tourists and locals alike.

If you followed Friedrichstrasse up to the Spree River as you cross the bridge there, you come to Murphey’s Irish Bar, a true Irish bar (full of real Irishmen) right in the heart of Berlin. Turn right as you walk out the front door of Murphey’s and walk one block to come to a whole string of bistros with outdoor eating areas set up along the river serving all kinds of food from German, French, Italian and Turkish. And nothing in Berlin tastes better after some late-night drinking than stopping at a Turkish food stand and getting a hot, fresh kebap which is a large mix of chicken, lamb or beef with herbs and tomatoes, onions and peppers wrapped in a large pita bread. And yes, you have probably had something similar, but somehow it tastes better made by a real Turk cook in Berlin. My personal favorite was Prime Kebap, Friedrichstrasse 100, 10117 Berlin.

 

Modern Berlin

On the weekends, if you stay up long enough you will find one the late-night raves that open all over Berlin in the early morning hours. The one that I ran into on Friedrichstasse on my second night in Berlin had about 500 young people all dressed in various forms of black trying to get into store front while thundering electronic music boomed out of the outdoor speakers. Or if your personal taste run to the more exotic, you could try one of Berlin’s fetish clubs like the world-famous Kitt-Katt Klub located in central Berlin. Berlin has long been known since the 1920’s as one of Europe’s most decadent cities, and it is all on display in Berlin if you just try to look for it.

A couple of websites that offer a non-stop list of events happening every day in Berlin would be;

  1. Berlin Programm – berlinprogramm.de
  2. Exberliner Magazine – exberliner.com

Also, a place to buy same day half-priced tickets to any event in the city would be as Hekticket, located at Alexnderplatz at Karl-Libknecht-Strasse.

Museum Island

If museums and art galleries are your thing – then Berlin has entire island in the middle of the Spree River dedicated to that. Literally called Museum Island, the island houses 5 world class museums and art galleries, the ornate Protestant Berlin Cathedral, and one of Berlin’s best open space parks, Lustgarten. Plus now where the old palace of the Hohenzollern dynasty stood, that the Communists tore down to be the East German Parliament building, that the city of Berlin tore down – there a huge public venue known as the Humboldt-Forum Berliner Schloss being built that will house more museums, shops, galleries, and concert halls costing the citizens of Berlin 600 million euros. So hopefully for politicians, it will be worth the expense.

It is worth noting that the museums are the Bode, Pergamon, the Neues, and Altes Museums plus the Old National Gallery of Art. Each museum specializes in a different historical era like Roman, Hellenistic, Babylonian and Islamic art and treasures. Of special interest is the 3000-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti located in the Neues Museum. The bust has been called “Berlin’s most beautiful woman”. It is amazing that after 3000 years, this statue makes such an impression not only because of its age, but her sheer beauty that still astonishes after 30 centuries. Right across the bridge toward the Brandenburg gate, is the German History Museum and the German State Opera house both worth consideration. Plus there are museums and art galleries in every part of the city exploring Berlin’s history and artistic contributions.

Victory Column, Tiergarten

Since my background is in live theatre, I took some time to explore Berlin’s avant garde theatre scene.  Berlin possesses more than 50 or so working theaters and produces more than 1,000 new live shows a year. Deutsche Welle’s Ben Knight describes the Berlin theatre scene as “Berlin theater is a hard thing to love – it’s pretentious, abstruse, cerebral and elitist. But on a good night, it’s also unique, iconoclastic, bizarre, and compelling.”

While I understand that Berlin’s theatre scene was one of the richest in Europe, it is really elitist and hard to understand sometimes. Even if you just take in the four international known theatres in Berlin, the Berliner Ensemble (formed by Bertol Becht’s wife), the Deutsches Theatre, the Schaubuhne, and the Volksbuhne, you are going to get four completely different experiences based on the artistic direction of each theatre, and they play to completely different audiences. Yet, I found some of the work I saw to be compelling and inventive, but emotionally distant as if I was watching an exercise in a theatre class. I am told the Berlin music and film scenes are just as inventive and wild.

Small Lake, Tiergarten

If you are looking for something a little more quiet and not quite so cerebral, then check out Tiergarten Park in the middle of Berlin, right across from the Brandenburg Gate. Huge, green, quiet and filled with bike paths and walking paths, where you are always finding a rose garden or a fountain or a memorial hidden among the lush green trees. To US citizens, it will remind you of New York City’s Central Park because of its large size, placement in the city, and how several streets run right through the middle of it.

Along its eastern edge you will find several important sites and memorials including the Brandenburg Gate, the Terror Museum, the Memorial to Murdered Jews of Europe, the German Resistance Memorial, and the Memorial to the Sinti and Roma Victims (the official names of the Gypsy race).

Holocaust Memorial

History, shopping, music, art, culture, food, cafes and clubs, Berlin has everything that you could want in a capital city. When I visit Europe, I often trying to envision myself living there and where would feel like home if at all. Rome is the first place that I think about, but Berlin while it can give you a cold distant feeling has an energy that I have not found in many European cities. It does not feel old and tired, it feels alive, new and  vibrant, and that is why I came to like the city so much.

Author with a new friend in Tiergarten

I had nothing to write about? – Los Angeles

I have just returned from an around-the-world trip – Europe, Middle East, India, through Japan back to Los Angeles. I took 1000’s of photos, visited ancient and modern cities, saw tons of castles, museums, and old ruins. Visited old friends, met new ones and saw people and places that I will always remember.

I also fancy myself a travel writer. I have a blog – tripswithjames.com. My readership is small but slowly growing. I have my website, a FB page, a Google page, and an Instagram page. I have tried to publish at least one article a week and on the recent trip I was up to two per week. I posted 100’s of photos on my sites and use an app called Hootsuite that can publish on up to 10 sites at the same time (to save time).

I try to take this new hobby seriously, so that it may one day turn into something real. Like a real business. That is why I was shocked when I went to start a new blog post a week ago, and had nothing to say????

While on my journeys I had posted 11 blogs about Iceland and parts of Germany. I had not even gotten to India yet (I could do 11 on India alone). Yet, on that morning as I sat at my desk and tried to write about Berlin (where I spent a week) – nothing. I did not even want to edit some photos and post those. Just blah!


Of course, I was back home and my “REAL” life was taking over again. My job as a college professor, my ownership of an Airbnb guest house, and editing my new short film as a film/theatre director slowly invaded the space that once was taken up with the next adventure and the next place to see and experience. Slowly, the journey was pushed out replaced by the need to have the dryer fixed, a new dishwasher delivered, and the carpeting in the apartment replaced with laminate flooring.

Yet blah?

Travel has been my increasingly important passion over the past 5 years. Something that I dream about and plan for and save for, so that I can see something I have not seen before and experience something that I have not done before. So why the writer’s block?


Then, I started to put pressure on myself for not writing. I would make plans to sit down and write, but always found a way to put it on the back burner. Always found an excuse or just plain forgot. What was going on? And the pressure built because if you are writing a blog – you have to be consistent to build an audience for your work. And I had made a promise to myself to be consistent. Yet, nothing. What was going on??

One night during an editing session on the new short film (called Fancy Meeting You Here) I mentioned this block to the writer/producer of the film. How I was so frustrated and stressed about not writing, and she said write about that.

What? Write about not writing? Why would anyone want to read that?

She told me that I am a creative person, and I am upset with not being creative. That I had just returned from a world tour for 6 weeks where my only responsibility was getting to an airport on time for my next flight. Other than that, I had no restrictions at all. I could do anything I wanted too. Now, my real life and all the things that entails was taking over and blocking out the journey and the ideas that it generated. The very jobs that make my current passion possible were getting in the way of that passion.
Further, she explained, is that I have a blog about travel but also all the things related to travel. Wasn’t it ironic that the very things that made the blog possible were keeping me from doing the blog. So write about that frustration.

Great, I get that I acknowledged, but who wants to read about a travel writer who cannot write. Who cares?

The problem was not unique to me, my friend pointed out. Everyone gets overwhelmed by daily life. The mortgage, the kids, the job, the car, the repairs, the in-laws, your boss. It all adds up to take us away from what is really important to us. You have to make an active attempt every day to focus on what is important to you, because no one else is going to make that space for you. Some days you get the time and other days you don’t, but you have to always try to find the space to create or whatever it is that is important to you. And that is what you should write about.

Then we went back to editing the film.

So that is what today’s blog is about. Finding the time to do what it is that you want to do. It won’t be there every day, but if you plan for it and make space for it, most days it will be. Daily life is going to happen regardless. Your responsibilities, your obligations and society all work to take over your moment to moment life. Your daily obligations can overwhelm you, and soon you may not realize that you have lost control of your own day to day existence.

It would be very easy to put off writing for a day that turned into a week, into a month, into three months, finally into six months I forget that I have a website at all. Me, myself, and I have to make the space, the time, and effort to get to do what I want to do. Some days I will have it and some days not, but I will not blame myself for not doing it – I will just make sure that I do it the next day. One day at a time – make the space to do what you love to do.

Peace!

The Night Watchman of Rothenburg ob der Tauber – Germany

You find yourself in Germany and you are on a budget. You are staying in hostels, taking regional trains to save money. You are eating in small cafes or roadside stands. Anything to save a few euros. You are always looking for a bargain. Some way to save money so you stay on the road longer. But you are tired of the castles, churches, and endless tours to see this and that. Yet you want something entertaining. Something that does not require you to buy a meal or a drink or a ticket, yet is fun and entertaining.

Well, buddy, I have a deal for you.

In Rothenberg ob der Tauber not far from Munich is the best entertainment deal in Germany. Cheap, fun, entertaining, and educational. There are no tickets. No long lines. You pay at the end not the beginning. If you don’t like it just leave, no problem. It lasts an hour and walking is involved. Yet, I guarantee that you will laugh, be entertained and learn a whole bunch of things you did not know.

What is this fantastic deal – it is the Night Watchman’s Tour of Rothenburg ob der Tauber featuring the most famous, non-famous actor in Germany.

Ok, lets stop here a moment and fill in some gaps.

Every night (from March to Christmas) just before dark (7 PM in the fall and early spring, and 8 PM in the summer), a single bearded man dressed in a long grey cape, a tri-corner hat, carrying a lantern and a hellebarde (a type of ancient spear with an axe head on the top used in medieval times) strolls into the main square of Rothenburg. He stands on the steps of the ancient city hall and groups of people who have been waiting for his arrival – some for an hour – gather around him. Some nights the crowd could be 50 to 100 people, and some nights in the summer the crowd could be as large as 300. From all over the world – people gather in front of this stranger and wait for him to speak. In a soft, sing-song voice that somehow carries quite far, speaking in English he advises the people that if they want to take a photo with him – to do it now, and that it is free. And as many as 30 to 40 people will rush up and take selfies, or group shots with this mysterious man.

Who is this person? Is he a cult figure, or some religious or political figure? No, he is Hans Georg Baumgartner, an actor, and he has been doing this wonderful tour for 25 years.

Awarded the TripAdvisor Award for Excellence in 2014, Baumgartner tells his stories about Rothenburg’s medieval history using dry wit and sly puns with a comic’s timing. He tells you just enough without boring you with endless details and too much information. Yet, he does convey the harshness of medieval life even in what was one of Germany’s grandest cities of the 14th to 16th centuries.  He talks about the day-to-day life in a walled city where the livestock were stored inside the city gates at night in the people’s homes, the constant fear of famines, and the unpleasant odors (especially in the summer) from people throwing their waste into the streets each day and the open sewers that ran through the city. He talks about plagues, the wars, how the city became wealthy, and how it slipped away.

 

All while he manages to hold an audience’s attention without aid of microphones or projections or sound effects. Just a single performer using his voice and his story-telling ability to weave his story as he walks the streets of his small town as cars, motorbikes, other tourists and residents pass by. It is really a very impressive performance as he leads through the streets and down alleyways, through gates, in and out of tunnels and to vantage points that offer sweeping views of Rothenberg and the surrounding valley.

Yet, Baumgartner is not really acting a role, he is the role because after doing this tour for 25 years the entire tour reflects his wit, style and personality. His bright blue eyes flash with humor and his devilish smile and inflection get constant laughs from his engaged audience. Yet, the narrative is what drives this interesting tale full of legends and true stories.

A legend like a 1631 drinking contest, in which the mayor of the town supposedly saved Rothenburg from being destroyed by the Catholic army during the Thirty Years War. It’s said that he downed three liters of wine in one gulp, besting the conquering general.

Or the very true story of how the town suffered during the end of World War II, when Allied bombing destroyed about 40 percent of its buildings and 2,000 feet of its wall. The town was about to be destroyed by the Allies when an official in the US State Department halted the bombardment because his Mother had gone to the village as a young woman and fallen in love with it. Years later, she often talked about the experience around the family dinner table, so when he heard about the possible destruction of the village he had to act. The official told the US commander to offer the Germans a chance to evacuate or be destroyed. The Germans withdrew and Rothenburg was saved all because a son honored his mother’s memories.

Rick Steves, the travel guide-book author, savvy in what American tourists will pay to see in Europe, calls the watchman tour “flat-out the most entertaining hour of medieval wonder anywhere in Germany.”

At the end of the tour – which lasts almost exactly an hour – he passes the hat and almost not one person refuses to pay him. Many in fact give him more Euros because of the quality and fun of the tour. He has a DVD for sale as well, that he hawks a couple of time during the tour, but even that gets a laugh. Baumgartner is a rock star storyteller and you can tell he loves the audience reaction.

This is without a doubt the best entertainment deal in Germany. Check it out and enjoy the ride.

NOTE: There are several Rothenburg’s in Germany. Do not go to the wrong one. You must go to Rothenburg ob der Tauber (the city’s official name) or you will miss out on Germany’s kept medieval city.

NOTE 2: There is also a strictly German-speaking tour later in the evening. Baumgartner sometimes does this one as well, but there is another Night Watchman for the German tour. Check local travel guides for the times of this tour.

 

Romantic Rothenburg ob der Tauber – Germany

After 5 rainy days in Munich, I took the train out of Munich to Rothenburg to experience the community that has been on this site since 1150 AD. The official name of the city is Rothenburg ob de Tauber, or “Red Fort on the River Tauber.” Around 1160, Rothenburg was swiftly became a commercial center because of its’ enviable position on the age old trade routes through Germany where goods from the East passed through, but also because of “the white gold” known as salt.

700 year old cobble street

By 1400, the city was one of the largest and most successful cities in the area. The city had a population that topped 6000 people, and business was booming. Rothenburg was becoming very wealthy and was much worried about the safety of its’ wealth and citizenry. The city elders through the years constructed a sophisticated system of walls, towers, and gates for the protection of the city. Massive stone walls were constructed that were pierced with 7 main gateways and aided by 42 stone towers for defensive positions and protecting the town. Along the inside length of much of the city’s walls, covered walkways were built that allowed for archers and other solders to take up protected positions for watching or shooting at possible invaders.

Guards walkway on the outer wall

However during the early 1500’s and into the late 1600’s, the city began to experience a steady decline because of political and religious upheavals like the Peasants War, the Reformation, the counter-Reformation and the 30 Years War. Plus the “Black Plague” that were sweeping through Europe killing millions of people also visited Rothenburg and killed as many as one-third of the citizens. What remained by the 1800’s was a walled village that was once famous yet now was a backwater town with no real business and thus no real reason to change anything. It was if the once prosperous medieval village was trapped in a time warp. Narrow cobblestone streets, half-timbered houses with red tile roofs, massive stone walls that no longer protected anything but a poor half-empty village that recalled a more ancient time.

Massive stone walls and towers are part of the defense.

Yet along about 1850, fortune began to smile on Rothenburg once again. This time it was because of the very backward nature of the village that people were attracted. Because of its’ very medieval look and feel, artists, poets and writers discovered the old town and painted it, wrote about it, and talked about it. What was considered ancient and backward now became quaint. And as is true through the ages of man, when the artists and creative types come, soon the general public follow and you have tourism. Tourists helped make Rothenburg relevant again.

Chapel courtyard

They came for the quaint ancient walls and half-timber houses that were 500 years old. They came to see the old churches like St. James Church, the Gothic masterpiece with its hand carved altar. They came for the excellent Franconian wine, food and hospitality. They came for the chance to step back time and experience a little of what it must have been like in the Middle Ages.

One of the many gateways into the town

And that is what you get when you spend a day or two in Rothenburg – living history. Walls and houses and buildings that are in some cases over 700 years old, but people still use and live in them. A chance to walk cobblestone streets that have carried people and goods for over a thousand years. Walking the same covered walkways along the village walls that some guard walked 500 years before you.

You can actually walk the city by using the guards walkway

There is a suggested Town Walk around the village that will lead you through large squares where you will see historic buildings, along the city walls where you will find towers, churches, gateways and bridges that date from the 12th century and leads to other parts of the city where you may decide to wander off the “official” tour to see some mysterious door or walkway of Rothenburg that interests you. There are several museums in Rothenburg like the German Christmas Museum showing the history of Christmas through the centuries, the Imperial City Museum with its’ collection of items covering 9 centuries, and the gruesome and very interesting Medieval Crime and Punishment Museum featuring scary examples of torture and execution devices.

Center square

The most interesting thing to see in Rothenburg is actually live entertainment. It is the world-famous Night Watchman’s Tour which I will write about in my next blog, but it is without a doubt the best hour of entertainment in Rothenburg and at 8 Euros the best deal in Germany.

400 year old cover bridge (rebuilt of course)

The most romantic place in Rothenburg is the Castle Garden and Burgtor Gate. A huge quiet garden at one end of the town as you pass through the Burgtor Gate with spectacular views of the city and the surrounding valley. There is a small old chapel that has stood there since the 14th century and a lovely herb garden. The area is quite large with many old trees and benches to sit and read or just chill. If you walk further in the park past the chapel and herb garden to another viewpoint of the surrounding valley, rumor has it that this is the best place to grab a kiss with your significant other.

View of Rothenburg from the Castle Garden Park

And of course as a tourist destination, there are plenty of eateries of all types and places to sleep inside and outside the village walls. For something to eat, you have traditional German fare, non-German styles foods, Italian food (because it is just on the other side of the nearby Alps), sandwiches and snacks plus several Biergartens (beer gardens) all covering a range of prices and styles. But make sure that you eat early. Rothenburg shuts down early. In the Old Town there are no night spots, although a couple of places stay open till mid-night during the summer where locals mix with tourists.

My Hotel, PhinzHotel Rothenburg

If you are staying in the Old Town there are more than 20 hotels and hostels to chose from and in all different prices ranges from very expensive to a very reasonable hostel located in a former horse-powered mill house. Outside the walls, there are even more choices of food and hotels.

One of the Tower Gates into the City

Getting to Rothenburg is very easy. By car or bus, you are on the Romantic Road, a route that extends from Fussen in the south to Frankfurt in the north, and you pass right through Rothenburg. There several car parks in and around the Old Town, and cars are allowed to drive in parts of the Old Town. If you are coming by train, the station is literally a block away from the main gate of the Old Town.  You can only get to Rothenburg if you make a connection in Steinach. It is a little spur line with a small train that runs about every hour until 10:30 PM. If you arrived after 10:30 in Steinach, there is a subsidized taxi service that can take you to Rothenburg, but you must call them 2 hours ahead of time to make a reservation. To use them call AST at 09861/2000 in advance, and they will take you to Old Town for 4.60 Euros per person instead of the regular 31 Euro daytime charge.

Enjoy Rothenburg and step back in time for a romantic and fun adventure.

 

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