Trips With James Europe

The 5 Best Things to Do in Lake Como

If you only have five days to spend in Lake Como these are the things that I recommend that you do.

Lake Como is a spectacular place with an incredibly beautiful lake, views of the mountains, interesting villages that date back to the Roman times and the entire area filled with history and beauty. There are enough things to do there to keep you busy for weeks on end, but if you only had five days to spend in Lake Como these are the things that I would recommend that you do.

The Como–Brunate Funicular

The Como–Brunate funicular (Italian: Funicolare Como-Brunate) is a historic single-track funicular railway that connects the town of Como on the lakeside with the village of Brunate at the top of the mountain. The line has been carrying passengers both tourist and local up and down the steep mountain slope between the two towns since 1894.

The 7-minute ride up the steep 55% incline is breathtaking with its sweeping views of the Lake Como area. The current price is 5.70 Euro per person over 12 and cheaper for under 12 for a return trip. Most days it runs every 15 min. Be prepared to wait for your trip up and down as this is an extremely popular attraction. The wait is worth it though as you have splendid views from the top and you can go hiking in the area around historic Brunate as well. The railway starts operating with the first trip around 6 AM and the last trip down is 10 PM. Make sure you are in line early to go back down because they do close off the line after a certain point. Then your only options are to walk down or take a bus or cab.

The address for the funicular is Piazza Alcide de Gasperi, 4, Como CO, Italy. The incline can be seen from every place in Lake Como and the ticket office/boarding station it right on the lake side, so it is quite easy to find. Enjoy!

Two Beautiful Hikes

These hikes are very different from each other. One is within the municipality of Como itself and the other you must take a short bus ride to the village of Colonno for a somewhat strenuous 10-kilometer hike through beautiful villages and spectacular views of the lake.

Greenway del Lago di Como at Colonno

The Greenway is a leisurely and pleasant hike between Colonno and Cadenabbia following traces of the Antica Strada Regina, the antique connection road that was built by the Romans. This 10 km long itinerary leads through ancient villages with wonderful examples of architecture, along villas and gardens with charming views.

While the guides and brochures say that The Greenway is an easy hike that is not always true. The trail wanders through neighborhoods and parking lots and backyards and ancient trails. It can go up or down flights of stairs. Some places you walk along the small two-lane roadway that is next to the lake. Cars and buses zip by. The Italians pay no mind to the traffic, but for less trusting people that busy roadway can be a little intimidating.

In the spring and summer it is beautiful, but you must remember that you are also in the foothills of the Alps. The altitude in the Lake Como area is around 650 feet but when you are hiking along the Greenway it can go from 650 ft to 900 ft and then drop back down in a short time. The trail in places has very rough pavement. The entire path is paved but each community takes care of the Greenway in their own way. For someone who is out of shape this might not be the best hike for you. While the grade of the trail itself is between a grade 1 and a grade 2 it can be quite strenuous in places. And the hike is certainly not for casual shoes, it requires hiking shoes. But the payoffs are spectacular views of things that you will never see from either the lake or from the highway as it passes next to graveyards, small out of the way churches, ancient villas and spectacular views of the lake and the islands around Colonno. Utterly worth it!

• ITINERARY: Colonno, Sala Comacina, Ossuccio, Lenno, Mezzegra, Tremezzo, Griante
• TOTAL WALKING TIME: 3.30 hrs.
• ASCENT: 100 m.
• DIFFICULTY: easy walk suitable all year round
• TRAIL SIGNS: green metal signs on the pavement and road signs
• CONNECTIONS to Colonno by bus – C10, from Griante: by bus – C10 or ferry
• See: http://www.lakecomo.it/sites/default/files/allegati/sezione/The%20Greenway.pdf for map and description.

Villa Olmo and Parco Di Villa Olmo and the paths beyond

The Villa Olmo stands at the north-western end of the city of Como, at the end of the Lino Gelpi lakeside promenade. The villa was named after an elm tree planted in the middle of the ornate gardens, which is no longer alive today. It was acquired in 1924 by the municipality of Como and today is open to the public only during exhibitions, while the lakeside gardens are freely accessible during the daytime.

Walking along the promenade and admiring the stately homes overlooking the lake you can perceive that romantic feeling that between 1700 and 1800, made the shores of the Lario a coveted destination of the Grand Tour of the European nobility and that Villa Olmo, with its park, still evokes today.

The park (Parco di Villa Olmo) behind the Villa, accessed through two side porticoes, is the main public park in the city of Como: it extends for about five hectares, excluding the surfaces of the various buildings and represents one of the most important historical parks not only in the city but in the whole province. The park offers different pathways that lead to pleasant clearings that offer panoramic views among the tree patches beyond which you can see the lake and the mountains above.

Once you pass through the park you come to a bridge which crosses the highway to Colonno and on the other side are paths that wander up into the hills. This entire area is full of villas from the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries when this was a playground for the wealthy nobility of Italy and Europe. Some of these villas are now closed, some are still privately held, and others are owned by the city of Como. While these pathways and different estates have no overriding theme or focus, the walks through this area are incredibly gorgeous. You can walk far up into the hills, or you can stay near the lakeshore, and you will see some amazing architecture but eventually you come to the beautiful Villa del Grumello which is owned by a private association and is used for special events and social engagements.

While you will not find a dedicated hike that goes from point A to point B, you can wander the forest path ways and estates taking in the wonderful architecture and views of the lake and the surrounding mountains. You get a real sense of the grandeur of Lake Como when wealthy nobility traveled to this serene place in the foothills of the Alps.

Trip of Bellagio and Ferries Rides on Lake Como

While there are guided boat tours that cruise up and down the lake and stop off at various villages, I recommend that you save (depending on the size of your party) money and do the tour on your own. I am not taking anything away from the tour guides but if you read any of the comments on Tripadvisor.com you find that certain people feel that the guided tour is not worth the money.

The public boat service connects the major towns along the shores of Lake Como. Navigazione Laghi, the operating company, has a fleet consisting of three types of boats including hydrofoils. Lake Como ferry prices depend on the destination and type of ferry. There are three types: speedy ferry, regular ferry, or a ferry goes around Lake Como. Ferry tickets can be bought at the ticket office near the dock. In case there is no ticket office in the town, you can also purchase tickets for the ferry on board. Ferries from Lake Como connect to the following cities: Bellagio, Varenna, Menaggio and Cadenabbia.

Nestled at the tip of a promontory jutting into Lake Como, Bellagio boasts unparalleled shoreline and Alpine views. Add in boutique-lined cobblestone streets, Italian villas, and fragrant gardens, and it is no secret why Bellagio is known as the Pearl of Lake Como.

Bellagio is a small village which only takes short while to experience. The village is on two levels, the lower one by the lakeside where there are outdoor eateries that cater to the tourist and the upper level, which is more residential, and where the main road comes into the village. The two levels are linked by steep stone-paved alleyways and along these alleyways are restaurants, shops, and homes. The village walkways are no place for casual high heel shoes. You should have a good pair of flat walking shoes to enjoy your tour Bellagio.
Other things to see in Bellagio besides the quaint village and cobble stone stepped lanes are the Villa Serbelloni Park, an 18th-century terraced garden with lake views, the Tower of the Arts, a venue for exhibitions and performances, and the Romanesque San Giacomo Church.

The easiest way to access Bellagio is via ferry. A hydrofoil runs from Como to Bellagio, making stops at the other towns on Lake Como along the way. Bellagio is accessible on either side of the Larian Triangle by slow, narrow and winding roads from Como or Lecco. It is much safer to drive from Como up to Cadenabbia and use the reasonably priced car ferry for the quick trip across to Bellagio. An alternative is to take the four-lane road on the eastern shore of the right arm of the lake to Varenna, then take the ferry to Bellagio. For more information, visit Gestione Governativa Navigazione Laghi. Narrow stone stairs make most of Bellagio inaccessible to cars. Public buses run daily from Como to Bellagio.

Sea Plane Tours

And finally, for something a little more exciting then hikes or cruises on the lake might be a seaplane tour of theLlake Como area. A little farther past the docks where you find the ferry and cruise boats, you will find the Aero Club Como where you can take a flight lesson in a seaplane, or you can take a 30 minute tour in a seaplane that takes off from Lake Como and flies over some of the most spectacular villages and villas in the area. On any day you can watch the crews push the seaplanes from the hangers out onto the lake and then whether it is a lesson or a tour you watch people climb onto the pontoons and then into the plane. You watch the plane cruise out to the designated takeoff and landing area on the water and off they go.

While you are in the cockpit of the seaplane you get to experience the pleasure of being able to observe the instrument panel, and help guide the aircraft. You also get to experience the speed of a thrilling takeoff and landing on water, or to observe the scenery that flashes quickly past your eyes. Tours consist of 30-minute flights for two people at about 140 Euro. Must book at least 4 days ahead during peak summer season. Maximum group size four.

https://www.lakecomo.is/project/seaplane/
Address Viale Masia 44
Phone 031 57 44 95
Website www.aeroclubcomo.com
Price per 30min flight per person €90

All photos are by James Carey.

Tripswithjames.com is a trademark of Carey On Creative, LLC.

A Visit to Zurich, Switzerland in the COVID Age.

Visit to Zurich Post COVID

The city of Zurich, Switzerland may seem like a strange place to visit in winter, but the offer of a really cheap roundtrip ticket kind of sealed the deal, so off to Zurich I went. But in the age of COVID travel a few things are different than they used to be.

A Day in Zurich – A Short Film

First, every different country will require some form of COVID vaccination proof and that includes countries that you are just passing thru waiting for your next plane at the airport. My flights were through London Heathrow and then onto Zurich. Britain requires you to fill out a form called the Passenger Locator Form that you can find at https://www.gov.uk/guidance/passenger-locator-form-how-to-guide. This will tell you everything that you need to know about the form and what information that you will need to provide. You have to do this within the 48 hours before you take off or the airline will not let you board the plane at all. There is no debate about this – no form, no fly. The UK will process it quickly and let you know if you pass. If you are full vaccinated you will have no problem but you must upload a digital copy or a photo of your vaccination card with the form. You need the plane number and your arrival time and takeoff time. They will give you a QR code you can use on your phone but I suggest to also take a paper copy along just in case. Remember this form is only for passing through Britain, if you are planning on staying that is an entirely different process so check ahead. You may still need to quarantine for up to 10 days if not fully vaccinated and you will have to pay for tests and other fees on top.

Because Switzerland is not part of the EU, I also needed to get permission from Switzerland to enter and stay. You can find out all the needed information from this official website of Switzerland – https://www.bag.admin.ch/bag/en/home/krankheiten/ausbrueche-epidemien-pandemien/aktuelle-ausbrueche-epidemien/novel-cov/empfehlungen-fuer-reisende.html – here you will find information on requirements and a link to the form that you have to fill out. They also have a handy link called Travelcheck that can take you through exactly what you need to do step by step. Remember the form must also be filled out and approved before you can even get on the plane or a train to enter the country. They will also give you a QR code but take a paper copy along as well.

Switzerland also gives you a separate Vaccination QR code so that you are able to go into bars or restaurants or theaters or concerts. Any place where people gather inside. I must stress that all stores and restaurants and bars in Zurich check this QR code religiously. You cannot enter into any establishment and stay unless you can provide them with vaccination proof. I could never quite figure out how to download that code although that QR code and the information are also on the Switzerland site. The official name of that department is the Federal Office of Public Health or the FOPH. When people asked for my QR code I kept showing them the one on my entry document which always came back negative, and I was even asked to leave a restaurant once when I could not provide it to them. However if you carry your American passport and your American vaccination card around, they will accept that and you will be able to get in any place and do normal things. Just don’t lose it!

And one more thing before we move onto what it’s like to visit Zurich. Please wear your mask! The Swiss do not play around with this. You are required to enter any establishment with a mask on and if you do not they will ask you to leave. If you want to argue or fight with them about your right not to wear a mask, they will just call the police. Please remember this is not the United States. This is a separate country with separate rules that their people follow in order to get along. You are expected to follow those rules. It doesn’t matter what you believe or how you feel about the subject. You are required to wear a mask indoors. Now when you sit down to eat you can take your mask off, but you must wear your mask even when getting up to go to the bathroom.

Now after all that required research and form filling out, did I find Zurich to be a a good place to visit? The answer would be yes. I was using Zurich as a jumping off point to cross into Italy which has its own separate rules and regulations about COVID and traveling in Italy which I will cover in my next article. Yet the city of Zurich is beautiful, very historic and a very modern city with all the conveniences that you would want in terms of transportation, entertainment and things to do and see.

Zurich is a global center for banking and finance. It lies at the north end of Lake Zurich in northern Switzerland. I chose to stay in a part of the city centre which is called Old Town because it is truly where the city was first founded as a military outpost by the Romans around the time of Julius Caesar. Old Town is very picturesque and runs on either side of the Limmat River. Here you will find historic buildings that reflect the deep and rich past of the Swiss like the 17th-century Rathaus (town hall) or massive clock towers and giant cathedrals.

I flew into Zurich International after dark and while most people in Zurich speak English, the official language of this part of Switzerland is German. French is the preferred language on the side of Switzerland closest to France. Despite the fact that English is a prominent language there are no signs that are in English. Everything is in German, so at first I was confused trying to find my way around. There’s a large train station right outside the airport with trains and subways and trams running in all directions. I finally with the help of strangers found the correct train that leads into Old Town and also the main railroad terminal for the city of Zurich. Coincidentally the train station is located on the most prominent and upscale shopping street in Zurich which is Bahnhofstrasse.

I chose to stay at a highly recommended hostel which provided me with a private room and bathroom for about $100 US a night. The hostel was on the other side of the river from the train station about a 10-minute walk. The hostel is called the Old Town Hostel Otter and is recommended by both traveladvisor.com and booking.com. It still had all the standard aspects of a hostel with a public kitchen and shared dorm rooms and bathrooms but also offered private accommodations. There’s also a fully stocked and friendly bar downstairs. Their check in process is a little complicated so I will leave it to their website to try and explain that to you, but I do recommend them as a high-quality hostel. You can find their website by searching on Google or information and ratings about them on traveladvisor.com or booking.com.

I was in Zurich for three days. The first day I did nothing but walked the quaint cobblestone streets and narrow alleyways of Old Town. I wandered up and down ancient streets and over bridges coming across interesting alleyways, upscale stores, little churches and giant cathedrals. I did not hire a tour guide or use any particular tourist map of Old Town. It’s not real large and very hard to get lost in because everything is centered off the river which splits Old Town down the center.

The next day I walked along the promenades that line both sides of Lake Zurich discovering marinas, parks and interesting neighborhoods plus the impressive Zurich Operahaus. I also went sightseeing on Bahnhofstrasse and admired the pre-Christmas window displays of the high-end stores that reflect every famous fashion brand. It was fun to watch the chic and well-dressed Swiss as they rushed from place to place as I sipped my café latte in one of the many cafes and coffee bars that line both Bahnhofstrasse and the alleyways of Old Town.

On the third day I just went to the train station to make sure I knew what train I was taking to Italy the next morning, and on a spur of the moment decision, I took the S10 train to Uetilberg Mountain. Uetilbeg overlooks the city giving you panoramic views of Zurich, the lake, and the surrounding area. It was beautiful this time of year and I imagine in summer it is breathtaking.

The cuisine choices of Zurich are broad and mostly good. I found everything from Asian to hamburgers to jazz bars and first rate restaurants. If you’re looking for something good to eat, I am sure that you can find it in Zurich, but it won’t be inexpensive. The Swiss have maintained their own currency which is known as the Swiss franc and currently the exchange rate is $1.15 US to 1 Swiss Franc.

The temperatures in the first part of November were in the 40’s F but there was no snow anywhere except on the mountain tops in far distance. Make sure that you have an umbrella just in case because the weather on the lake can change at a moment’s notice from sunshine to rain and back again in a matter of minutes. Time in Zurich runs on a 24 hour clock as opposed to our 12 hour clock in the United States. So what Americans would consider as 1 PM would be 13:00 in Switzerland and in most of Europe.

Enjoy Zurich, it’s a great city!

All photos and short film are by James Carey @CareyON, LLC.

Category: Europe

The 5 Best Things to Do in Lake Como

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A Visit to Zurich, Switzerland in the COVID Age.

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