Hiking in Vegas – Lake Mead Railroad Trail

One of the easiest and best hike in Las Vegas is the Historic Railway Trail that over looks Lake Mead and Hoover Dam. TripAdvisor gives this trail a 4 1/2 rating and calls it the #15 thing to do in Las Vegas.

The Historic Railroad Trail is an easy, dog-friendly hike along a former railroad grade. It provides panoramic views of Lake Mead, overlooking the Boulder Basin area. As hikers travel through five large tunnels, they will experience a portion of the railroad route that ran from Boulder City to Hoover Dam from 1931 to 1961.

As one of Southern Nevada’s most unique trail experiences, the trail was designated as a national recreation trail on June 4, 2015. It shares the rich history of the construction of the Hoover Dam and the creation of Lake Mead.

In 2017, the Historic Railroad Trail was graded and received a new layer of decomposed granite, improving its accessibility and the overall visitor experience. The trail can be accessed near the Lake Mead Visitor Center or via the Hoover Dam Parking Garage.

This is the only remaining section of Hoover Dam Railroad system that is not highly disturbed or under water

You can walk, run, bicycle or even push a stroller on this flat easy trail. Along the trail you will see a section of rough, rocky road on the south side of the railroad bed that is believed to be the first section of pioneer trail or road for the construction of Hoover Dam. Approaching Tunnel 1, on the right, look down the ravine to see concrete plugs taken out of Hoover Dam to install the turbines.

  • The first tunnel is around 1 mile from the trailhead.
  • The fifth tunnel is around 2.2 miles from the trailhead.
  • The elevation change from the trailhead to the fifth tunnel is about 11 feet.
  • After the fifth tunnel, the trail continues another 1.5 miles to the Hoover Dam Parking Garage. The elevation change between these two points is around 445 feet.
  • Total distance = 7.5 miles (12 kilometers) round trip.

All tunnels are approximately 300 feet in length, and 25 feet in diameter. The tunnels were oversized to fit penstock sections and large equipment being transported to Hoover Dam.

Tunnel 1 has eight sections of vertical supports, five of which have horizontal planks to prevent the fall of loose rock on to the tracks so there would be few delays during the 24-hour dam building schedule. Weight from the rock has damaged the outermost, eastern arch.

Tunnel 2 burned in an arson fire in 1990. You can see it looks different from the other tunnels. It was sprayed with shotcrete to fortify the now looser rock.

Rocks excavated from the tunnels were undoubtedly used for the fills. The outermost east arch was deformed by pressure of the rock in tunnel 3.

Tunnel 5 was burned in 1978 and was then sealed. The tunnel was restored, sprayed with shotcrete and reopened in July 2001. The trail continues to Hoover Dam and the visitor center parking structure. The gates after Tunnel 5 are locked at sunset.

Historic Lake Mead railroad tracks leading to tunnel

Nine steam and four gas locomotives and 71 people used to operate the system. It was a standard-gauge, 90-pound rail construction that used Oregon fir ties.

This section of the railroad was used in the motion picture “The Gauntlet” starring Clint Eastwood and Sondra Locke for a sequence in which they were on a motorcycle being chased by an assassin in a helicopter.

You can access the trailhead from the junction of Nevada Way and US 93 at the northern end of Boulder City, Nevada, take US 93 approximately 2.4 miles in a easterly direction to Lakeshore Drive. Turn left onto Lakeshore Drive and proceed a short distance past the Alan Bible Visitor Center. The trailhead is located on the right side of Lakeshore Drive.

Note: Major parts of the information included in this article are taken from the National Park Service Lake Mead National Recreation Area website and the National Recreation Trail website. Photo credit: Photos were taken from NPS.org and NRT Database.

Hiking in Vegas – Sloan Canyon

Thanksgiving in Las Vegas. When I told people that was my plan for the holiday, I either got “…by yourself?” or “…stay out of trouble.” And staying out of trouble is right! The one night I spent on the Strip doing a little gambling at the Cosmopolitan, Aria and Bellagio, I was approached by no less than 9 hookers. So no matter what the law says, prostitution is alive and thriving in Clark County. Yet, I didn’t go to Vegas for gambling and hookers, I own a time-share at a place called South Point about 5 miles off the Strip, and my week fell during Thanksgiving. So I came up for a week of chilling, relaxing, sleeping, and eating at the great restaurants around Vegas. But in the daytime…

With the weather comfortable 65 degrees in the daytime and beautiful clear days, exploring the incredible outdoor life of the Las Vegas Valley was on the agenda. I first heard of Sloan Canyon National Conservation Area from a local in a drinking establishment aptly called The Bar. He told me it offered pretty easy hiking and some amazing rock drawings along the walls of a narrow ravine.

The park is located in Henderson which is about 20 minutes from my place, but about 30 minutes from the Strip. The hike to the petroglyphs is about a 4.5 round trip through a dry creek bed covered with fine gravel that makes the trip a bit of a slog. There a couple of places where you have to climb up dry waterfalls that block the canyon, but this is really a very easy trail. However, it is not for anyone with a cane, crutches or a wheelchair. There are no walkways or paved areas or seating areas of any kinds.

The rock art is amazing with about 300 rock panels and something like 1700 individual designs – etched by native Americans along the walls of the ravine. Some of them date back to the Archaic Period of the Southwestern Pueblo Indians (6000 to 500 BCE).

Bring good hiking shoes, thick socks, at least two liters of water and sun protection. There is no shade anywhere. The ranger station is usually closed but the toilets were open. However, the day I went, the gate to the visitor center was closed so I walked up to the station adding about an extra .4 of a mile to the round trip journey.

Totally recommend this hike. Good steady workout but nothing incredibly difficult. The drawings are totally amazing and serve to point out that people have been coming to spend time in Las Vegas for about 6000 years. Now that is a vacation resort for the ages.

The TSA Blues – Opinion

So recently, I went to get my TSA Pre-Check eligibility in Los Angeles. I paid $85 for a 5 year membership to be able to bypass the long security lines at airports in the US. The ability to not have to pull my computer out, have to take my shoes off, or have a surly TSA agent stick their hand in my private areas. That sounded like a really good deal to me if for no other reason than just in terms of sheer time saved.

So I was eager to check out how this would work on my first international flight since receiving my TSA Pre-Check approval. I have been sometimes selected for this program randomly, but not officially. I had already booked a flight to Copenhagen after I had applied for the program (which takes about 3 to 4 weeks) so when I got my KTN # (Known Traveler Number) I called my carrier, Norwegian Airlines to give them my number. I was kindly told in a sing-song Scandinavian voice that Norwegian did not take part in the program so I could not use my KTN for this flight.

OK, I had to stand in line like everyone else again. Ok, I could that. I had done that before – many times if you have read my blog before. However, what follows are the worst two experiences that I or my family have ever had at the hands of the TSA.

I am all for border protection and legal immigration. I am all for the rule of law and applying it equally. I am not however, for a bunch of foul-mouth, self-entitled, rude, self-important jerk-offs yelling at US citizens, legal Green Card holders, and proper visitors to the US with proper visas, especially when those being yelled at are myself and my wife. The TSA feels that they are answerable to no one and that should change ASAP.

My wife had gone to Europe to see her family for 3 weeks, and I was joining her for the last 10 days in Hamburg, Germany. We were going to return together on a Norwegian Airline flight from Copenhagen and land in Los Angeles.

I should explain here that my wife is from Denmark. She has lived here for 7 years, and we have been married going on 5 years. Her permanent green card application has taken forever. In older days, the process took about 2 years from applying to receiving your permanent residence card that would be good for up to 10 years before you have to reapply. During that two-year period, the applicant was granted a temporary Green Card which allowed them to stay, and exit or enter the USA. Now because of Obama, Trump, 9/11 and other factors, this process can take up to 4 years and still not be resolved. The people going through this process are not illegal, but that temporary card can be taking away at anytime. And that can and does create a lot of anguish and anxiety for the individuals and their families.

Applying for the card is also an expensive choice costing with legal fees more than 3000 dollars with no guarantee that you will be allowed to stay. You can choose to do this process yourself to save some money, but it will still cost upwards of 1500 dollars. Once you are granted temporary status, it can be taken away at a moment’s notice and you are put on a plane at once and away you go back to your home country, even if you are married to a US citizen. If you are here on a visa of any nature and it runs out and you do not return to your home country, the only other choice you have other than marriage is to go underground. That is what many immigrants used to do, but if you are ever caught you are banned from entering the USA in many cases, forever. So the idea that getting a permanent green card is easy or simple, or that you can fake it by getting married is simply not true. It is a long, hard process that is expensive and is very stressful on a person or family.

Now Los Angeles is one of the busiest entry points into the USA. A TSA customs employee told me that at any one time there are 3000 people standing in line at customs waiting to be processed, and more than that are processed through the security lines. That is every working hour of the day – 7 days a week. That is a lot of people, stress and constant screening to process. It can put an amazing strain on people and a system. Yet, that is no excuse for bad and rude behavior to citizens and visitors alike just because your job is stressful. And TSA is making no excuses for its incredibly awful service and terrible treatment of people.

So I get to the airport and get my e-ticket for my flight to Denmark. I stand in the 45 minute line to get into the security line. One of my complaints is that no airport is the same in terms of how they handle this procedure. Every single one of them does it different, and at LAX which has 7 terminals – they do it all different as well. So there is no standard, no set way. Different places want you do to different things. And with the increase of machines helping with moving the bags and shoes, and new x-ray machine the process is constantly changing. Plus at LAX because of the sheer number of people, the guards scream instructions at you all the time. Someone should train them to understand that humans automatically turn off paying attention when someone screams at them continuously. We just tune out.

This day the message being screamed at us was”…nothing in your pockets at all. No passport, wallet, paper – nothing. Put everything in the container.” I managed to do that, however I always keep my boarding pass with me, so I stuck it in my back pocket. I go through the x-ray machine, and I am immediately pulled out of line and surrounded by two TSA guards.

They showed me the x-ray image where there is something in my back pocket. I pull out my boarding pass. A single piece of paper. But because of this I am now going to experience a full body search instead of a wand. I asked why and they said that it was a new policy. They were professional about it – telling me what they were going to touch and I said ok – meanwhile, my computer, passport, wallet, medicine, shoes were waiting at the end of the collection point where anyone could have taken them.

They checked my waistband, my pockets in the back and felt up my butt. “Now turn around!” I asked why because the x-ray clearly showed that there was nothing in the front part of my body. “Procedure” was the answer has he felt up my legs, grabbed my privates very hard and checked my front pockets. Than I was told to take off my socks? What were they going to find in two sport socks? At this point, I began to complain loudly about the overkill. I have a KTN number, it was a piece of paper, nothing in my socks. The sock check was over so I grabbed them and started away. I was shoved back into place by a large female officer, and when I pointed out that my passport was out in the open for almost 10 minutes now – she literally screamed in my face, “…we have cameras all over the place. No one is going to steal your lousy passport.” This is the same TSA that has failed every major test of their system since testing began. Sure they were going to notice one guy’s passport being pick up at the end of the conveyor belt.

Than they checked my hands of whatever chemicals that they check for – Pass. Than I was dismissively told to “move along.” That did it. His and his partner’s entire attitude was offensive and over the top. I told the officer that he was rude and this entire procedure was a pure power play. That the full body check was entirely unnecessary because of a single piece of paper that they could clearly see in the image screen. He demanded to know if I want to speak to a supervisor. I told him what was the point – 10 minutes had already been wasted, and I would simply be put in another room to file my complaint and more time would be wasted. But I retold them that they were very rude. As I walked away the female officer screamed again, “Did I want to speak to a supervisor?”

As I collected my items that had sat on the conveyor belt for 15 minutes almost and started to check if everything was there, I realized I was extremely upset. I have heard about rude or over the top behavior by TSA agents, but had never experienced myself in all the trips I have taken. I felt like I had been assaulted almost.  A man standing next to me who must have seen part of the exchange stated to me that he had a Pre-Check number and he got pulled out every time. His comment was he did not know why he had gotten the KTN# because it was basically useless. I wondered to myself if the same fate would happen for me now.

Then the return –

So the brief history of my wife. She is a Danish citizen and while waiting for her permanent Green Card to come, her Danish passport expired. So she sent off for another from Denmark which took about 6 weeks, and in the meantime she got an extension placed in her old passport by the local immigration office. We are lucky that we live in LA, so there is a local one. Yet, if during that time a family member or emergency happened in her home country, she could not travel at all. No airline would accept her and no country would receive her until she had proper travel documents.

Plus because the process takes so long now, her temporary green card had expired. But instead of giving her a new card, the US made her travel with an expired temporary green card and a visa extension in her expired Danish passport. Her Danish passport is in her maiden name so each time she travels anywhere, she carries two passports (one old with the extension visa and the new passport), her marriage license with her married name, and her expired Green Card also in her married name.

Now just before her trip, she got notice that her permanent Green Card was approved she was here in the country permanently – but they would send the card in about 3 to 4 weeks. She would receive the card after her return to the country.  So for this trip she carried the 2 passports, the expired Green card, her marriage license and the letter that said she had the permanent card with the ID# on it.

She had done this trip to Denmark about 4 time now, plus trips with me to Cuba, Mexico (twice) and Canada. She is always questioned but not for long and customs is relatively easy.

Recently, her fingerprints ended up in the system, so now she is pulled out of line every time and taken to a sealed TSA room known as “secondary check”. Here she is told to sit for up to an hour while they check her through the computer system. This is always on a first come, first serve basis. There is no allowance for green card holders and people already with the proper visas. The secondary check is for anyone that may appear on the screen of the customs agent at the first check-in. If they see anything that flags you, you are escorted by an armed officer to the secondary check room for the reason they were flagged.

This is not the little room that they show in all the movies with two-way mirrors and agents staring at you trying to figure out which country you are a spy for. This is a large room where everyone is treated like cattle. No one but the officer and the person pulled out of line can go inside. There is no cell phone communication allowed inside. None whatsoever. There is no time limit as to all long they can keep you, they will answer no questions about the person inside from anyone including family. They handle many languages and cultures and constantly have to deal with people who are confused, scared or literally do not speak English. So it is hard on the personnel and the person pulled out of line and can created some very stressful and tense situations. Yet again that does not excuse really rude behavior from anyone or agency.

My wife was in this room for 3 hours (a visit that has always only taken an hour), while I waited outside after a 12 hour flight and 2 hour check in that the Copenhagen airport. I was not allowed to know what was happening with her, and when I asked I was told in no uncertain terms to sit down and be quiet. So I sat in baggage claim for three hours with her bags and no idea if or when she would get out. She did manage to secretly text me a couple of times, but it was just to let me know she was still ok.

While there she witnessed TSA officers threatening legal immigrants with deportation if they did not shut up. Pulling cell phones out of confused foreigners’ hands who did not speak English and screaming at them. Not letting mothers talk to their children. Not letting relatives speak to the people in the room. There were chairs for about 12 people and there were more than 50 people in the room, so people had to sit on the floor. Why does this process need to be so aggressive and ugly?  What is the point of this kind of behavior by professional airport and customs officials?

Now again let me state that I want border protection. I want to feel safe when I fly, but I don’t want officials of my country screaming at me and mine, or legal visitors and residents because they are over worked. There is no excuse for it. I wish someone in Washington would do something about this, but in the current political climate that is not going to happen, and this problem of rude, overworked, over-entitled TSA officers and personnel is only going to get worse.

Last Day in Maine: Sea Coast, Wild Blueberries, Lighthouses and King

It is our last day for touring around Maine before my wife and I return to Los Angeles through Logan Airport in Boston. And we still had so much to see. So up early and breakfast in Bar Harbor and on the road.

First stop was Schoodic Point about 4 miles away from Acadia as the crow flies but about an hour away by car. Schoodic Point is on a peninsula about 4 miles from Mt. Desert but there is no direct route there so you have to drive off the island and take Maine 1 north to the turn off for Winter Harbor. You travel down this lovely peninsula to the Schoodic Point Park. It is actually part of Acadia National Park, but much less crowded or visited. The views are amazing and the air actually smells clean – that is hard to describe, but it was the freshest air I have ever smelled. Just smelled pure.

This is a great place to picnic weather permitting and just look at the wave crashing on this rocky granite coast full of tidal pools and amazing rock formations.

Second stop was further up Maine 1 at Columbus Falls, Wild Blueberry Land. It is an iconic place to stop according to all the websites – Google, TripAdvisor, and others. Maybe back in the day – but when we dropped by other than some fun photos, the place is pretty run down and inside you can watch a baker actually make off the blueberry goodies right in front of you, there was no stock in the cases and the coffee was out. There is a putt-putt course outside – old and overgrown but still works. Maybe later in the season there is more going on!

Third stop and really the entire reason for the trip up Maine 1 was to get to West Quoddy Head Lighthouse. The most photographed lighthouse on the Eastern seaboard and one of the most iconic images of Maine. It is located in Lubec, ME, and is the eastern most point of the US before entering Canada.

You get there and it is lonely there. Nothing out this way except the lighthouse. There is a mile long nature walk in the woods surrounding the lighthouse. Deep, old woods that offer glimpses of rocky cliffs and bluffs high above the crashing waves below.

Back in the car and now looking for places to stay – not much out in this part of Maine in terms of housing. Some quaint B&B’s but also some of them looked a little sketchy. So we decided to head for Bangor in the late summer light and found a good hotel. We had dinner that night at a wonderful place called McLaughlin’s at the Marina. A two story place with great views of the Penobscot River and boats coming in after a day on the water. Food and service A+.

Final stop in Maine – Stephen King’s house. Lovely Victorian home in Bangor perfect for the Master of Horror with its spiderweb front gate. The house is really easy to find – it has its own Google map location. Do not go in please. It is a private home, but there are literally thousands of photos online from drive-byes.

Than down to Boston and home. A really wonderful adventure covering all the things I love – theatre, travel, and adventure.

 

Acadia Images, Day 2 – Mt. Desert Island, Maine

Day two on Mt. Desert Island was focused on the western side of the island. So it is less about the Acadia National Park, which while still there – this part of the island is more about local villages, fishing, and a much slower life style. Here are some images from hiking Wonderland Trail, Bass Harbor Lighthouse, Mill Cove outside Pretty Marsh Village on a wonderful bright blue day. Enjoy!!

Hike

 

Images: Acadia National Park

These are views from our first day at Acadia National Park taken while driving the Park Loop Road, including Cadillac Mountain views, Jordan Pond and views from the trail around Jordan Pond, and walking the trail to Thunder Hole.

June 2018

All photos by James Carey

Acadia National Park, Day 1 – Mt. Desert Island, Maine

We woke up to a beautiful bright day, and after breakfast, set out for the park.

View from Cadillac Mountain

The first part of the park that you encounter as you enter is the Park Loop Drive which is on the east half of Mt. Desert Island. This takes you pass almost all the high traffic sections of the park like Cadillac Mountain, Jordan Pond and its hiking trails, the Bubbles, Thunder Hole, and the little town of Northeast Harbor.

Islands viewed from Cadillac Mountain

The first stop was Cadillac Mountain, the highest point on the North Atlantic coast and the first place in the US where you can view sunrise from October to March. At 1500+ feet, it is not really that high but it offers spectacular views of the surrounding bay and islands. Also the drop in temperature even in summer was dramatic. At the base of the mountain is was 87F’ that morning on the top with winds it was about 49F’. So bring a coat or jacket, you will need it.

Continuing along the Park Loop, you come to Jordan Pond and the historical Jordan Tea House. Finding parking in the car lot is tight so bring your peaceful, calm side because it can be frustrating and this was just the early summer season for tourists. The Park Service does offer a free shuttle service to various parts of the park, so check their website for more info and schedule on this service.

Jordan Pond

The Jordan Pond House traces its history from 1847. A man by the name of William Bennett built the first road to the pond in 1836. He had bought the land to start a logging business. He built a house and two mills. Three years later the Jordan brothers bought the property and operated the mills for many years, cutting and sawing the heavy growth of timber which covered the valleys and sides of the mountains, – and the pond gained its name.

In 1847 they built the original farm-house which forms a part of the present Jordan Pond House.  The pond was named for the Jordan family for whom the pond and house were named. The Jordan Pond House was founded as a restaurant by Mr. Melvan Tibbetts in the early 1870’s. People would ride out in their carriages on the weekends from Bar Harbor to the pond and the Tea House would serve refreshments to people on the grounds while they hiked or admired the views. Both the Pond and the Bubbles are visible from the Tea House, which still serves food today.

The Bubbles

The Bubbles are two small mountains located on the northern end of Jordan Pond. They are asymmetrical pink granite hills that were abraded and smoothed on the northern side and quarried—rough and steep—on the southern side by overriding ice. The Bubbles got their name because of their unusual shape. When viewed from the southern end of Bubble Rock Jordan Pond, the twin mountains look bubble-like. They are different from most other mountains on Mount Desert Island. Rather than the typical elongated shape of most mountains there, they are instead more round.

Bubble Rock or the Balance Boulder is perched precariously on the southeast corner of the summit of the South Bubble. This large rock was transported from the area around Dedham, Maine and left in its current position as the glaciers receded thousands of years ago. Bubble Rock is clearly different from the rocks on which it sits. Bubble Rock is made of white granite rather than the pink granite that makes up the Bubbles and the surrounding mountains. It is called a glacial erratic.

From the Jordan Pond Trail

The Bubbles are accessible from two trails; there is the much steeper Southern Trail that leads from the Jordan Pond Loop Trail to the summit of the South Bubble. It is a short hike, .6 miles, and offers wonderful views of Jordan Pond and the surrounding mountains. The Bubble Trail is short, about four tenths of a mile, and not very steep, quite accessible. Start in the parking area right off of the Park Loop Road. The trail doesn’t offer any views until the summit of either mountain. Both the North and South Bubble peaks are accessible from the trail. There are no restroom facilities at the trail head.

Shoreline Jordan Pond

A carriage road on the western side of Jordan Pond provides spectacular views of the mountains. Also there is also a hiking path surrounding the pond. Jordan Pond Full Loop Trail is a 3.4 mile lightly trafficked loop trail  and is rated as moderate. The trail offers a number of activity options and is best used from April until October. Dogs are also able to use this trail but must be kept on leash. Half of the hike along the pond shore is very manageable with easy pathways, but then the path than gets very difficult for older or unsteady hikers and children. Lots of climbing, elevated and narrow plank walkways, and difficult terrain so check which side of the lake suits your hiking style.

From Jordan Pond Trail 2

Our next stop was the little village of Northeast Harbor, which is located on the southern tip of Mt. Desert Island. The village was extremely quaint filled with art galleries and eateries. The village has a significant summer population, and has long  been a quiet enclave of the rich and famous.We stopped at 123 Main Street Restaurant for ice cream and coffee, and a walk down to the marina. Really lovely and off the main track so there were not many tourists that day.

An interesting side note is that this part of world was settled by Quakers among other religious groups seeking a peaceful life in the New World, and there is a Quaker Friendship House in Northeast Harbor. Quakers do not believe that meeting for worship should occur in any special place. They believe that “where two or three meet together in my name, I am there among them” (Revised English Bible, Matthew, Ch 18, v 20). Therefore, meeting for worship may take place in any place.

Thunder Hole

Final stop for the day was on the east part of the Park Loop Drive. We parked and hiked about a mile by a sea-side trail to Thunder Hole. This is a natural rock inlet where waves crash with a thunderous boom & high-flying foam when seas are up. Thunder Hole is just past Sand Beach while traveling south on the Park Loop Road.

From Trail to Thunder Hole

Went back to the hotel and changed for dinner at a local eatery just outside of Bar Harbor called the Chart Room featuring classic New England seafood, pasta & prime rib are on the menu at this casual indoor/outdoor eatery. The wine was very good and dinner hit the spot. During the summer they recommend reservations – 565 Eden St, Bar Harbor, ME 04609, chartroombarharbor.com, (207) 288-9740.

Next – Acadia, Day 2

From Trail to Thunder Hole 2

Historical info by Wikipedia, photos by James Carey

Images: Houses of Bar Harbor

Bar Harbor, while not as famous for grand “cottages” of the Gilded Age, as its neighbor to the south, Newport, Rhode Island, it did have some spectacular homes before a massive fire in 1947 burned many of them down, or they were torn down. These are some of the amazing houses still left in Bar Harbor, both private and converted for some other use. Enjoy!

Going Down East – Bar Harbor, Maine

PortFringe was over and we were on to the next part of our Maine excursion. We pulled out of Portland in our rental car after saying goodbye to our wonderful hosts, Laurie and Ross, and headed for Mt. Desert Island. Mt. Desert might be better known to you as Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park which are located on the very large island off the coast of Maine.

We were early in the season for Maine tourism, so the traffic on the 1 as you drove north up the coast was not to bad so we made decent time. We stopped for lunch in Camden and walked around. Pretty little town, but very touristy and crowded.

We turned off the 1 to the 3 at Ellsworth and in about 16 to 18 miles took the bridge over to the island and headed to our hotel – the High Seas Motel on Highway 3 on the outskirts of Bar Harbor. A very reasonably priced, clean family run motel with a heated pool in summer. There is morning coffee and an open kitchen area with microwave open from 7 AM to 10 PM. There is also a coin laundry on the premises for the guests.

After settling in and getting unpacked, we headed for Bar Harbor about 3PM. Bar Harbor is located along Maine’s Frenchman Bay. It serves as the gateway to the mountains and cliffs of neighboring Acadia National Park. Towering over the park, Cadillac Mountain has trails and views of the town, the bay and the Cranberry Islands.  From the town pier, the Shore Path winds along the bay overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, the Porcupine Islands, and several of the remaining grand houses of the Glided Age building craze in the 1890’s.

Here I will take a moment to comment on the National Park and its relationship to the island. Acadia National Park covers much of Mt. Desert but there are many selections of the island that are purely residential. When you arrive on the island you are encouraged to buy a $40 pass that allows to travel and park in the National Park. But to be honest, we were on the island and in the National Park everyday – we were never stopped or given a ticket. I am not advocating not supporting the National Park Service, but it is not absolutely necessary to buy a Park Pass in all cases. You may run the risk of getting a parking ticket from the Park Service. Yet, with so many out of state people living on the island during the summer, it is almost impossible to keep track of all the cars and knowing who is a part-time resident or a park visitor. That said I would encourage to support the work of the National Park Service and buy a pass.

Brief History of Bar Harbor

The town of Bar Harbor was founded on the northeast shore of Mount Desert Island, which the Wabanaki Indians knew as Pemetic, meaning “range of mountains” or “mountains seen at a distance.” The Wabanaki seasonally fished, hunted and gathered berries, clams, and other shellfish in the area. They spoke of Bar Harbor as Man-es-ayd’ik (“clam-gathering place”) or Ah-bays’auk (“clambake place”), leaving great piles of shells as evidence of this abundance. In early September 1604, French explorer Samuel de Champlain ran aground on a rock ledge believed to be just off Otter Cliffs, and when he came ashore to repair his boat he met local natives. Champlain named the island Isles des Monts Deserts, meaning “island of barren mountains”—now called Mount Desert Island, the largest in Maine. The community was first settled by Europeans in 1763 by Israel Higgins and John Thomas and incorporated on February 23, 1796 as Eden, after Sir Richard Eden, an English statesman.

The Famous Balance Rock!

In the 1840s, its rugged maritime scenery attracted the Hudson River School and Luminism artists Thomas Cole, Frederic Edwin Church, William Hart and Fitz Henry Lane. Inspired by their paintings, journalists, sportsmen and “rusticators” followed. Agamont House, the first hotel in Eden, was established in 1855 by Tobias Roberts. Birch Point, the first summer estate, was built in 1868 by Alpheus Hardy.

By 1880, there were 30 hotels, and tourists were arriving by train and ferry to the Gilded Age resort that would rival Newport, Rhode Island. The rich and famous tried to outdo each other with entertaining and estates, often hiring landscape gardener and landscape architect Beatrix Farrand, a resident at local Reef Point Estate, to design their gardens. A glimpse of their lifestyles was available from the Shore Path, a walkway skirting waterfront lawns. Yachting, garden parties at the Pot & Kettle Club, and carriage rides up Cadillac Mountain were popular diversions. Others enjoyed horse-racing at Robin Hood Park-Morrell Park. Many of these grand estates and homes were burned down in a massive fire at raged in the town in 1947.

On March 3, 1918, Eden was renamed Bar Harbor, after the sand and gravel bar, visible at low tide, which leads across to Bar Island and forms the rear of the harbor. The name would become synonymous with elite wealth. It was the birthplace of vice-president Nelson Rockefeller on July 8, 1908.

Many influential people have called Bar Harbor home for at least part of the year. John D. Rockefeller, Jr., son of John D. Rockefeller of Standard Oil Co., donated about one-third of the land in Acadia National Park and built the carriage roads that are used for hiking and biking. J. P. Morgan owned a house that is adjacent to Bar Harbor. Cornelius Vanderbilt built cottages in Bar Harbor. The Astor family owned hotels and cottages in Bar Harbor and the surrounding areas. The co-founder and CEO of Burt’s Bees, Roxanne Quimby, has a home near Bar Harbor. Martha Stewart has also been known to frequent Mount Desert Island and been seen in Bar Harbor.

Shore Path

We sent the late afternoon and early evening exploring the small streets of Bar Harbor and walking along the Shore Path (described above). Seeing what remains of the houses that at one time rivaled Newport Beach in Rhode Island, as a playground of the super-wealthy. The walk starts at Argamont Park and moves along the shore till it reached Wayman Lane.

There are several yacht tours of the harbor and islands, some even on large sailing yachts, all docking and leaving from the terminal next to Argamont Park. Many of the large old homes have been converted into hotels, B&B’s and restaurants, and all with wonderful views of the harbor. And of course there are tourists, t-shirt shops and sports bars everywhere.

We opted for dinner at a natural food store on Main Street, but there are eateries of every variety to choose from all serving lobster (especially lobster rolls),  haddock and salmon.

After the walk and dinner, we returned to our hotel for a bottle of wine and some time in the heated pool before the mosquitoes got too bad. Next day  was Monday and that was to be part 1 of two days in Acadia.

Historical data from WikiPedia, Photos by James Carey

 

Images: Peaks Island, Maine

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